I forgot the a important detail and had to repost the question. It's a purple 1997 Plymouth Neon, I bought it used for 1,200 back in august. It's mileage is a bit over 104,000. I put 500 dollars into the car for front end links, transmission filter, I got the gas line replaced and some kind of thing that helps the pressure of teh gas flow (I forgot the correct name. I am not a car person). The car is no longer running ( the gas pump is bad. I actually got it fixed a week ago and it went out on me again. It was my fault though. I bought a cheap used pump). It was my first car I just needed something to get through winter. School is over and I dont need a car for college so I think I should sell the car. I didnt want to junk it because I heard that I would be lucky to get a hundred dollars.
The car also needs inside detailing, a tune-up, and oil change.How much should I sell my car for? (re-post)?
NOT RUNNING 200 bucks........u fix it about 800-1k........again parts and stuff u put into it are considered maintenance....
i still even running would not give u but about 200 bucks.....in present condition 50 bucks..How much should I sell my car for? (re-post)?
start with a haggeling price like $800 then lower the price to 6,5, or $400 dollars to the buyer. but thats only if the buyer says that $800 is to much. Good luckHow much should I sell my car for? (re-post)?
1700
Thursday, September 22, 2011
How much does it cost to replace belts & hoses in a car?
Hi My car is being worked on. It's already getting its oil leak fixed, tuned up, spark plugs, fluid check, %26amp; oil change. They tell me the hoses %26amp; belts have never been replaced (car is 10 years old, I bought it used), and should be done asap. They also want to charge me over $700 for hoses %26amp; belts; not sure if they included a water pump, I was in sticker shock, so to speak. Is this an unreasonable price? Repairs are almost at the price of the car, and it was in good shape. This is just maintenance.How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
700.00 is about right. The timing belt is way overdue and it's
a great Idea to do the waterpump at the same time. Sounds
like your mechanic is right on the money.How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
Scoop is right on, you should get buy for around $50.0-$75.00 for belts and new antifreeze if needed.
The Serpentine belt is around $15.00-$20.00 depending on which one. Try the quick lubes. Good LuckHow much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
It should be nowhere near that for just hoses and a few belts.I just got a surpeantean belt at advance auto for $20 hoses are very cheap.How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
Unless they are changing the timing belt it should NOT cost 700 just for belts and hoses. Find another mechanic! Sounds like this is one of those shotty joints that gives us all a bad name!How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
unless they're changing the timing belt and water pump also that's too much.How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
that sounds pretty steep for hoses and belts, find out what all is included in the quote.How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
Get them to give you the list of things they are doing and the things they want to do. Make sure they put the prices on each item for you. If the belts and hoses need replaced and after 10 years most of them will, just one special one may cost $80.00 and so on. That is why the list is important. Also just for your information, ask that all parts and pieces replaced be kept for you that you want the old ones. No kidding, they sometimes charge you and do not replace. I f you have all the old worn out hoses, belts and spark plugs etc then you know they put new stuff in. If they ask why, just tell them an old grandma told you to ask for the old ones.
700.00 is about right. The timing belt is way overdue and it's
a great Idea to do the waterpump at the same time. Sounds
like your mechanic is right on the money.How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
Scoop is right on, you should get buy for around $50.0-$75.00 for belts and new antifreeze if needed.
The Serpentine belt is around $15.00-$20.00 depending on which one. Try the quick lubes. Good LuckHow much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
It should be nowhere near that for just hoses and a few belts.I just got a surpeantean belt at advance auto for $20 hoses are very cheap.How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
Unless they are changing the timing belt it should NOT cost 700 just for belts and hoses. Find another mechanic! Sounds like this is one of those shotty joints that gives us all a bad name!How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
unless they're changing the timing belt and water pump also that's too much.How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
that sounds pretty steep for hoses and belts, find out what all is included in the quote.How much does it cost to replace belts %26amp; hoses in a car?
Get them to give you the list of things they are doing and the things they want to do. Make sure they put the prices on each item for you. If the belts and hoses need replaced and after 10 years most of them will, just one special one may cost $80.00 and so on. That is why the list is important. Also just for your information, ask that all parts and pieces replaced be kept for you that you want the old ones. No kidding, they sometimes charge you and do not replace. I f you have all the old worn out hoses, belts and spark plugs etc then you know they put new stuff in. If they ask why, just tell them an old grandma told you to ask for the old ones.
How can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
I went to the Gas Station on Tuesday my gas was almost to E, I got a half a tank of gas, soon after I got it, I started my car, 2 minutes of driving, my car started putt'n, stalling, and acting like it wanted to cut off..My car was working fine, until I got that gas...Now I know I was due for an oil change, and a tune up, but..the car was working fine until I got that gas..When I got to my destiantion, which was work, I got out the car, came back to the car about 5 or 6 hours later, and the car would not start right away, without me having to pump the gas, and then it cut off, and I had to start it again, it didnt start rolling untill, 10-15 minutes later..And the gas pump I was using was pumping out rather slow, it took about 5 minutes just to get a half tank of gas, in a 98 honda civic thats only 10 dollars worth..How can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
you got bad gas, probably water in the gas. get some fuel injector cleaner and put in your tank and leave it run for awhile.How can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
We all make assumptions very rapidly that its the gas. It probably is and you'll probably go get the dry gas you talked about in your other question and pour that in. But listen, until you've seen the inside of the fuel tank and cleaned it, you'll just assume some gas station gives you bad gas, but what I'm telling you is that the tanks I clean out have had about half pint of water in them. What this means is that just about every fill up you should be adding some kind of additive to keep the water out. Then there's no guarantee that the tank will be free of water. ITS an ONGOING processHow can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
well that could be a sign really hard to look at it without pumping some into a glass jar
but so easy to just buy a bottle of fuel treatment to remove water and clean fuel system which one should be doing like one changes oil but you can add it every week if you want cost like two bucks to try it and it doesnt hurt
first shouldnt run a car on low
that alone wil make fuel tank sweat and you get water more so in winter fuels will get water some places more than others say with wide temp changes cold one day hot the next
just go buy a bottle or two try a bottle of fuel treatment fill up at another place run it dont to a 1/4 tank add another bottle should take care of fuel systemHow can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
Could be contaminated with water. let your local environmental people know of your suspicions and they will check.
Go to another service station and fill up to the top. When you've used a quarter top up again. Do this for a week or so and you should have used uo the contamination.
Alternative is to drain the tank but not easy.How can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
If i were you i would go to a different place and fill your car all the way to the top with gas. The mixture of good gas to bad gas (if that is the problem) should have your car run better. If you car doesnt experience those problems after you filled it up then you know not to go to the that place for gas again. Bad gas can happen and will clog up your injectors.
you got bad gas, probably water in the gas. get some fuel injector cleaner and put in your tank and leave it run for awhile.How can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
We all make assumptions very rapidly that its the gas. It probably is and you'll probably go get the dry gas you talked about in your other question and pour that in. But listen, until you've seen the inside of the fuel tank and cleaned it, you'll just assume some gas station gives you bad gas, but what I'm telling you is that the tanks I clean out have had about half pint of water in them. What this means is that just about every fill up you should be adding some kind of additive to keep the water out. Then there's no guarantee that the tank will be free of water. ITS an ONGOING processHow can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
well that could be a sign really hard to look at it without pumping some into a glass jar
but so easy to just buy a bottle of fuel treatment to remove water and clean fuel system which one should be doing like one changes oil but you can add it every week if you want cost like two bucks to try it and it doesnt hurt
first shouldnt run a car on low
that alone wil make fuel tank sweat and you get water more so in winter fuels will get water some places more than others say with wide temp changes cold one day hot the next
just go buy a bottle or two try a bottle of fuel treatment fill up at another place run it dont to a 1/4 tank add another bottle should take care of fuel systemHow can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
Could be contaminated with water. let your local environmental people know of your suspicions and they will check.
Go to another service station and fill up to the top. When you've used a quarter top up again. Do this for a week or so and you should have used uo the contamination.
Alternative is to drain the tank but not easy.How can you tell when you have put bad gas in your car?
If i were you i would go to a different place and fill your car all the way to the top with gas. The mixture of good gas to bad gas (if that is the problem) should have your car run better. If you car doesnt experience those problems after you filled it up then you know not to go to the that place for gas again. Bad gas can happen and will clog up your injectors.
1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ok so my crx (1990 honda crx) was throwing a code 16 and won檛 start.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.
2. Replaced Battery.
3. Replaced fuel filter.
4. Replaced fuel pump.
How problem started.
Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.
It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.
Fixing process.
I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.
I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.
I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.
Here is what I have done so far.
1. Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor rotors, and cap.
2. Replaced Battery.
3. Replaced fuel filter.
4. Replaced fuel pump.
How problem started.
Problem started about 4 months ago. The car would run find while driving but once I turn the car off, it would not start. I would try a few times and then battery would die, and I would have to jump start the car. Every time I jumped it, it would start right up.
It got to the point where the car would start, and I would drive it, and when I turned it off, it wouldn檛 start for a few days. After about a day or 2, it would start right up again and repeat same process over and over.
Fixing process.
I finally decided to tune it up a bit. I did a full oil change, replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotors, and fuel filter. After that, it started right up again and ran find for about a day. On the second day, the problem came back again. I noticed that when starting the car, the check engine light would come on. Now when you first turn the key to the on position, the check engine light and all the other lights come on, I know this. But it goes off. What I am saying is during the starting process the check engine light comes on again. So I looked at the ecu and it was throwing code 16, which has to do with the fuel injectors. I was told to test the injectors?resistance with an ohm meter. The primary injector should be showing between 0.6 and 1.6 ohms, and the auxiliary should be showing between 0.6 and 10 ohms. I tested them, and both seem to be good.
I finally decided to get a fuel system cleaner. I put cleaner in and got the car to start. I ran the car all day without turning it off just in case. I even took it on the free way and ran it at high speed. After that, I turned the car off, and let it sit for about 18 hours. It was about 9pm at night and it was cold so I decided it was a good time to test the car. I tried to start it and it started right up with no hesitation. I then turned it off and tried it again just to make sure, and it started right up. So I drove it for about 5 minutes and then parked it again and turned it off and tried to start it again and it started right up again with no problem. So I figured the problem was fixed. The next morning, I went to do one last test. I tried to start it and it started find again, so I took it for another drive. While I was driving the car sounded like it ran out of gas and just died. I tried over and over to start it but best I could get it to do is start and then die 2 seconds later.
I towed it home and tried to diagnose the problem again. First I checked the fuel filter and it had some dirt in it so I washed it out with gas. I put it back on and tried to start the car and still no luck. I took it off again and noticed there was no fuel going to the car anymore. I noticed I couldn檛 hear the fuel pump either so I replaced the fuel pump. I turned the keys to the on position and waited a few minutes then checked the fuel line again to see if it had fuel in it and it had plenty lol. But I still can檛 get car to start. So now I am back here again looking for help to see what could be the problem. I am still getting code 16 on my euc. What i was thinking is to replace the injectors one at a time to see which one was causing the problem. If anyone has any other ideas, Please let me know i am stuck lol.1990 honda crx problem help.?
Ignition module is more than likely faulty. Common problem on 90s hondas. Located under the cap inside the distributor.
Need some help with a car plz (2002 dodge neon)?
YOU DON'T HAVE TO READ WHOLE THING you can just go to bottom and tell me what i should do but nothing stupid like blowing up the place or something. i feel like i have been done wrong and that they are just trying to get some extra money because they are probobly going bankrupt and need some quick money so that they dont go out of business but i dont know its a crystler jeep dodge company
ok well i took my car up to dallas dodge (running great) for an oil change and transmission fluid change, and to check why the engine light is on and see what is wrong with brakes.
ok so they had the car for a week
we call and they say that we need a brand new engine harness, new fuel pump, new wiring, and our car wont start
the thing is when we gave the car to them it ran perfectly just the engine light was on.
now i really think that they broke all that stuff trying to find the engine problem.
At first they said that it was a wiring problem they fix that and then the whole car breaks down?????? doesn't make sense
then they were fixing that and they say that the car needs a new engine harness from a wreck (there is a small dent near the front wheel where they said the engine harness is) but even if it is right there a very very very very small dent wont shatter a engine harness so i think that they broke it. and the fuel pump, they say that it wont work anymore that there is no gas going to the engine. the thing is we drove it for a long time and nothing ever went wrong. they were gonna charge about 4000 to get all that stuff fixed
So now they are saying that they put it all together and we got into an argument. and they fixed some dead wires cause they thought that they were the problem with the engine light, they said it will cost about six hundred so they went ahead and fixed it without our ok on it. then the whole breaking down talked about above started happening.
today they called me back and said that the car is all put back together the total is 289.57 and that our gas gauge is broken it says we have half a tank of gas but the gas tank is empty. also we had to bang on the gas tank to get the car started.
Now tell me how does it go from 600 after they fix the wiring to 289.57 after they are completely done something is not right
I feel like i have been done wrong and i dont know what i should do any help?
i will take all comments to considerationNeed some help with a car plz (2002 dodge neon)?
all you can do is cut your losses like every other sad and troubled neon owner does..white hair russian name translation
ok well i took my car up to dallas dodge (running great) for an oil change and transmission fluid change, and to check why the engine light is on and see what is wrong with brakes.
ok so they had the car for a week
we call and they say that we need a brand new engine harness, new fuel pump, new wiring, and our car wont start
the thing is when we gave the car to them it ran perfectly just the engine light was on.
now i really think that they broke all that stuff trying to find the engine problem.
At first they said that it was a wiring problem they fix that and then the whole car breaks down?????? doesn't make sense
then they were fixing that and they say that the car needs a new engine harness from a wreck (there is a small dent near the front wheel where they said the engine harness is) but even if it is right there a very very very very small dent wont shatter a engine harness so i think that they broke it. and the fuel pump, they say that it wont work anymore that there is no gas going to the engine. the thing is we drove it for a long time and nothing ever went wrong. they were gonna charge about 4000 to get all that stuff fixed
So now they are saying that they put it all together and we got into an argument. and they fixed some dead wires cause they thought that they were the problem with the engine light, they said it will cost about six hundred so they went ahead and fixed it without our ok on it. then the whole breaking down talked about above started happening.
today they called me back and said that the car is all put back together the total is 289.57 and that our gas gauge is broken it says we have half a tank of gas but the gas tank is empty. also we had to bang on the gas tank to get the car started.
Now tell me how does it go from 600 after they fix the wiring to 289.57 after they are completely done something is not right
I feel like i have been done wrong and i dont know what i should do any help?
i will take all comments to considerationNeed some help with a car plz (2002 dodge neon)?
all you can do is cut your losses like every other sad and troubled neon owner does..
Need some help with a car plz (2002 dodge neon)?
YOU DON'T HAVE TO READ WHOLE THING you can just go to bottom and tell me what i should do but nothing stupid like blowing up the place or something. i feel like i have been done wrong and that they are just trying to get some extra money because they are probobly going bankrupt and need some quick money so that they dont go out of business but i dont know its a crystler jeep dodge company
ok well i took my car up to dallas dodge (running great) for an oil change and transmission fluid change, and to check why the engine light is on and see what is wrong with brakes.
ok so they had the car for a week
we call and they say that we need a brand new engine harness, new fuel pump, new wiring, and our car wont start
the thing is when we gave the car to them it ran perfectly just the engine light was on.
now i really think that they broke all that stuff trying to find the engine problem.
At first they said that it was a wiring problem they fix that and then the whole car breaks down?????? doesn't make sense
then they were fixing that and they say that the car needs a new engine harness from a wreck (there is a small dent near the front wheel where they said the engine harness is) but even if it is right there a very very very very small dent wont shatter a engine harness so i think that they broke it. and the fuel pump, they say that it wont work anymore that there is no gas going to the engine. the thing is we drove it for a long time and nothing ever went wrong. they were gonna charge about 4000 to get all that stuff fixed
So now they are saying that they put it all together and we got into an argument. and they fixed some dead wires cause they thought that they were the problem with the engine light, they said it will cost about six hundred so they went ahead and fixed it without our ok on it. then the whole breaking down talked about above started happening.
today they called me back and said that the car is all put back together the total is 289.57 and that our gas gauge is broken it says we have half a tank of gas but the gas tank is empty. also we had to bang on the gas tank to get the car started.
Now tell me how does it go from 600 after they fix the wiring to 289.57 after they are completely done something is not right
I feel like i have been done wrong and i dont know what i should do any help?
i will take all comments to considerationNeed some help with a car plz (2002 dodge neon)?
all you can do is cut your losses like every other sad and troubled neon owner does..
ok well i took my car up to dallas dodge (running great) for an oil change and transmission fluid change, and to check why the engine light is on and see what is wrong with brakes.
ok so they had the car for a week
we call and they say that we need a brand new engine harness, new fuel pump, new wiring, and our car wont start
the thing is when we gave the car to them it ran perfectly just the engine light was on.
now i really think that they broke all that stuff trying to find the engine problem.
At first they said that it was a wiring problem they fix that and then the whole car breaks down?????? doesn't make sense
then they were fixing that and they say that the car needs a new engine harness from a wreck (there is a small dent near the front wheel where they said the engine harness is) but even if it is right there a very very very very small dent wont shatter a engine harness so i think that they broke it. and the fuel pump, they say that it wont work anymore that there is no gas going to the engine. the thing is we drove it for a long time and nothing ever went wrong. they were gonna charge about 4000 to get all that stuff fixed
So now they are saying that they put it all together and we got into an argument. and they fixed some dead wires cause they thought that they were the problem with the engine light, they said it will cost about six hundred so they went ahead and fixed it without our ok on it. then the whole breaking down talked about above started happening.
today they called me back and said that the car is all put back together the total is 289.57 and that our gas gauge is broken it says we have half a tank of gas but the gas tank is empty. also we had to bang on the gas tank to get the car started.
Now tell me how does it go from 600 after they fix the wiring to 289.57 after they are completely done something is not right
I feel like i have been done wrong and i dont know what i should do any help?
i will take all comments to considerationNeed some help with a car plz (2002 dodge neon)?
all you can do is cut your losses like every other sad and troubled neon owner does..
Should I follow Toyota's service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
2005 Toyota Highlander
I really don't feel like paying alot for the dealer to %26quot;inspect%26quot; things on my car although Toyota's service schedule recommends it.
Someone on a Toyota forum told me this, what do you think?
If you intend on just draining and filling your fluids you should do your transmission fluid and engine coolant at 30k. If you intend on flushing those systems you can wait until you reach 45k, at that point I would do trans fluid, engine coolant, power steering fluid and brake fluid. How I recommend to my customers to maintain their vehicle is 5k oil changes and tire rotations, 15k along with the aforementioned do a wheel balance and alignment, between 15k-20k change your cabin filter and engine air filter (depending on where you live, i.e. dust, a lot of pollen, etc. 30k-45k recommend engine coolant and trans fluid, as well as brake fluid and power steering fluid closer at 45k. Between 45k-60k I would do your front and rear differential fluid if you have 4wd/awd and maybe a fuel injection cleaning. At 60k-90k I recommend plugs, plug wires, PCV valve (at least check it). At 90k I recommend (depending on the car, year) timing belt, water pump, cam/crank seals, accessory drive belts (serpentine drive belts) if they haven't been changed recently since you have to remove them to do timing belt, etc. That's maintenance.
Repairs such as brake pads, new tires, drive belts, etc are as needed.Should I follow Toyota%26039;s service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
Nice vehicle, if you do the maintenance suggested, it will last and last.
The vehicle is getting older.... if it doesnt have any warranty, follow the schedule but dont get dealers to do it because yes, they are way more money, especially toyota... find a good independent mechanic.. small guy.. who knows toyotas.... it will cost you half...
I always maintain my vehicles according to maintenance schedules and they last.. my honda is ten years old, going on 11.. its like new..d drives like new... looks amazing... no worries and I follow hondas recommended plan.. but I have taken it to an independent guy for the last six years.... and it costs little compared to the dealer....
Oil... always change at 5000k..... its the blood of the vehicleShould I follow Toyota%26039;s service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
sounds good i don't think you missed alot of stuff if any. usually as long as you keep up with the oil changes and regular stuff that pops up your toyota is going over 200,000 thousand miles with no strain and a good chance into the 300's. do you have a warranty left? that is gonna void the warranty if you awol the service on it.Should I follow Toyota%26039;s service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
Follow the schedule %26amp; rule of thumb. You don't have to go to the dealer. Do it yourself or go independent.
I really don't feel like paying alot for the dealer to %26quot;inspect%26quot; things on my car although Toyota's service schedule recommends it.
Someone on a Toyota forum told me this, what do you think?
If you intend on just draining and filling your fluids you should do your transmission fluid and engine coolant at 30k. If you intend on flushing those systems you can wait until you reach 45k, at that point I would do trans fluid, engine coolant, power steering fluid and brake fluid. How I recommend to my customers to maintain their vehicle is 5k oil changes and tire rotations, 15k along with the aforementioned do a wheel balance and alignment, between 15k-20k change your cabin filter and engine air filter (depending on where you live, i.e. dust, a lot of pollen, etc. 30k-45k recommend engine coolant and trans fluid, as well as brake fluid and power steering fluid closer at 45k. Between 45k-60k I would do your front and rear differential fluid if you have 4wd/awd and maybe a fuel injection cleaning. At 60k-90k I recommend plugs, plug wires, PCV valve (at least check it). At 90k I recommend (depending on the car, year) timing belt, water pump, cam/crank seals, accessory drive belts (serpentine drive belts) if they haven't been changed recently since you have to remove them to do timing belt, etc. That's maintenance.
Repairs such as brake pads, new tires, drive belts, etc are as needed.Should I follow Toyota%26039;s service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
Nice vehicle, if you do the maintenance suggested, it will last and last.
The vehicle is getting older.... if it doesnt have any warranty, follow the schedule but dont get dealers to do it because yes, they are way more money, especially toyota... find a good independent mechanic.. small guy.. who knows toyotas.... it will cost you half...
I always maintain my vehicles according to maintenance schedules and they last.. my honda is ten years old, going on 11.. its like new..d drives like new... looks amazing... no worries and I follow hondas recommended plan.. but I have taken it to an independent guy for the last six years.... and it costs little compared to the dealer....
Oil... always change at 5000k..... its the blood of the vehicleShould I follow Toyota%26039;s service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
sounds good i don't think you missed alot of stuff if any. usually as long as you keep up with the oil changes and regular stuff that pops up your toyota is going over 200,000 thousand miles with no strain and a good chance into the 300's. do you have a warranty left? that is gonna void the warranty if you awol the service on it.Should I follow Toyota%26039;s service schedule or just follow a rule of thumb when it comes to maintenance?
Follow the schedule %26amp; rule of thumb. You don't have to go to the dealer. Do it yourself or go independent.
Nissan GXE 2001 Check Engine and idle problem?
I have Nissan GXE 2001 bought on 2005 w/ 75000 miles on it at that time. It has almost 110000 miles now. I have regular oil change every 3 months. Regular tire rotation and wheel balance. I just had coolant pump replaced two months before. I am having new problem now. At one point, at a turning (at slow speed) the vehicle hesitated little bit and then I noticed the check engine light was on. Firestone told me it would cost 90 bucks to diagnosis the problem. I took car to Autozone and Advanced Auto. Both of them did a free check engine and gave me the Code P0100 - Mass air flow. Next day the car went off two times- one at red light and when waiting for turn. What could be the problem? Can Firestone fix this problem? And how much it could cost?
And the biggest question is does it worth to keep this car? I am spending $150-300 / every 3-4 months as Firestone mechanics recommends or tell everytime that there is somethind wrong.......
Please advise.
Nissan GXE 2001 Check Engine and idle problem?
Armador is correct just replace the air flow meter and you will not remember how fast your car was because you have gotten used to the old air flow meter. Some Maxima's need to have the ECM re programed I would go ahead and have a Nissan Dealer give you an estimate and ask does my ECM part number require a ECM reprogram If not a re prog. part number... you can unbolt a hose clamp and 4 (10mm bolts) and do the job your self.Nissan GXE 2001 Check Engine and idle problem?
that car is common for failing mass air flow sensors at certain ages or mileage just have the sensor replaced you should be good to go. all in all that year sentra is pretty solid.Nissan GXE 2001 Check Engine and idle problem?
myspecv.com.... join... learn it... use it... it will answer all sentra questions
And the biggest question is does it worth to keep this car? I am spending $150-300 / every 3-4 months as Firestone mechanics recommends or tell everytime that there is somethind wrong.......
Please advise.
Nissan GXE 2001 Check Engine and idle problem?
Armador is correct just replace the air flow meter and you will not remember how fast your car was because you have gotten used to the old air flow meter. Some Maxima's need to have the ECM re programed I would go ahead and have a Nissan Dealer give you an estimate and ask does my ECM part number require a ECM reprogram If not a re prog. part number... you can unbolt a hose clamp and 4 (10mm bolts) and do the job your self.Nissan GXE 2001 Check Engine and idle problem?
that car is common for failing mass air flow sensors at certain ages or mileage just have the sensor replaced you should be good to go. all in all that year sentra is pretty solid.Nissan GXE 2001 Check Engine and idle problem?
myspecv.com.... join... learn it... use it... it will answer all sentra questions
I'm having car trouble; I need advice?
Last night my car started acting funny. Whenever I stopped (red light; stop sign), and I hit the gas to go, my car kinda sputters at first. Like it struggles to get going. But once it started going, it was fine.
Then, this morning, I go to leave and I have about 50% engine power, at all times, even while driving. My check engine light is on and blinks sometimes. By the way I have a 1996 4-door Chevrolet Cavalier. When I looked under the hood while the car is running, I can see the entire engine shifting back and forth as if it were about to die, but it never did.
I just had an oil change about 2-3 weeks ago, and I checked my oil. And I also had a new fuel filter and fuel pump put in about a month or so ago.
I'm thinking it has something to do with spark plugs/wires. But I'm not sure. If you also think the same, how do I tell if a spark plug is dead? How do I take them out? I pulled the spark-plug wire off, and I can see the spark plug, but I've never messed with those things before so I just stopped right there.
WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK?I%26039;m having car trouble; I need advice?
Mechanic.
It's a short, simple word, that people seem to forget or something.
Instead of wasting 5-10 minutes typing up your question, you could have had a 5-10 minute conversation with a mechanic, and gotten your answer straight from a professional.
So the question is...why didn't you?I%26039;m having car trouble; I need advice?
Not knowing the mileage but guessing at the age you're ripe for new plugs and plug wires. To diagnose use a spark plug wrench and remove one at a time. Reattach the plug wire and start engine. See if it sparks and if the engine replicates your problem. When it doesn't you've found the wire. Buy to be safe replace all plugs and wires. you're dueI%26039;m having car trouble; I need advice?
It's really hard to tell what the problem is. Just take it to an auto mechanic.I%26039;m having car trouble; I need advice?
HAHA, I love how you just state that mechanics lie.
Mechanics are just people, like you are. And more often than not, they know what's going on, when YOU don't. If they lie, they don't get your service back, so that wouldn't benefit them in the slights.
And yeah, they'll tell you to bring it in. That's like calling a doctor and saying you feel bad. Without them checking you out, how would they figure out what's wrong with you?
Thank you for the humor today. You seem like one of the least bright car owners I've ever seen.
And reported, since you seem to feel the need to insult others. What an ingrate, lmao.
Then, this morning, I go to leave and I have about 50% engine power, at all times, even while driving. My check engine light is on and blinks sometimes. By the way I have a 1996 4-door Chevrolet Cavalier. When I looked under the hood while the car is running, I can see the entire engine shifting back and forth as if it were about to die, but it never did.
I just had an oil change about 2-3 weeks ago, and I checked my oil. And I also had a new fuel filter and fuel pump put in about a month or so ago.
I'm thinking it has something to do with spark plugs/wires. But I'm not sure. If you also think the same, how do I tell if a spark plug is dead? How do I take them out? I pulled the spark-plug wire off, and I can see the spark plug, but I've never messed with those things before so I just stopped right there.
WHAT DO YOU ALL THINK?I%26039;m having car trouble; I need advice?
Mechanic.
It's a short, simple word, that people seem to forget or something.
Instead of wasting 5-10 minutes typing up your question, you could have had a 5-10 minute conversation with a mechanic, and gotten your answer straight from a professional.
So the question is...why didn't you?I%26039;m having car trouble; I need advice?
Not knowing the mileage but guessing at the age you're ripe for new plugs and plug wires. To diagnose use a spark plug wrench and remove one at a time. Reattach the plug wire and start engine. See if it sparks and if the engine replicates your problem. When it doesn't you've found the wire. Buy to be safe replace all plugs and wires. you're dueI%26039;m having car trouble; I need advice?
It's really hard to tell what the problem is. Just take it to an auto mechanic.I%26039;m having car trouble; I need advice?
HAHA, I love how you just state that mechanics lie.
Mechanics are just people, like you are. And more often than not, they know what's going on, when YOU don't. If they lie, they don't get your service back, so that wouldn't benefit them in the slights.
And yeah, they'll tell you to bring it in. That's like calling a doctor and saying you feel bad. Without them checking you out, how would they figure out what's wrong with you?
Thank you for the humor today. You seem like one of the least bright car owners I've ever seen.
And reported, since you seem to feel the need to insult others. What an ingrate, lmao.
Is a head gasket leak causing my problems?
I have a 1994 ford probe gt. for long time now, at least 6 months, i've been having a starting problem with my car. When it hasn't been on in about 20 minutes, The engine doesn't start unless i pump the gas and takes about 3-5 seconds to start. However, it's always started for me after hundreds of times. most of the time, though, after sitting for more than 5 or 6 hours it will start immediately with no gas pedal input at all, likewise when its been only a few minutes since i turned it off. the first 5 seconds of so of idle can be quite rough (sometimes it does stall back out but if it does it usually fires right back up) but after that, the engine runs perfectly, idling, cruising, or flooring it.
I changed the fuel filter a while back to no avail and have changed spark plugs (wires were already like new). The engine does burn some oil (i add 1 or a little more quarts per oil change), but that is normal i suspect for a 16 year old car. The oil and coolant do not mix and there is not white smoke from the exhaust (when it's warm that is, obviously you can see exhaust when it's freezing). The car used to give off a bit of blue smoke on startup but i haven't noticed this since the end of last summer. There is some oil which seeps into the wells that the spark plugs sit in which i think might come from the head gaskets. Is it possible that the oil that seeps into the wells leaks through the spark plug threads and makes them not fire until the engine has turned over a bit? the plugs look fine when i take them out though (the insulator and the electrodes are nearly perfect but the outer ring where the threads end generally have some oil on it, some cylinders pool more oil in the wells than others) so i dont know how valid this is. or maybe oil just leaks right into the cylinder where it pools a little until the first couple seconds of turning over have cleared it? this problem has perplexed most of the people i've talked to. I'd like to fix it but i dont really want to change the gaskets. The problem really doesnt have a detrimental effect and i've become quite used to just pumping the gas a few times to start. but if it is something moderately simple to fix i'd love to clear it up.Is a head gasket leak causing my problems?
Okay... To answer your oil pooling. The oil is coming from the camshaft rocker cover. Change that gasket; it is cheap and takes five minutes to fix (4-6 small bolts) and easy to get at.
Change the spark plug leads (they call them wires in the USA) and change the distributor cap, too, while you are about it. Just because they look good and clean does not mean a thing.
Best of luck.Is a head gasket leak causing my problems?
Have you had it properly tuned up by a qualified mechanic.
Until you do don't be guessing
If there is a major concern he can tell you.
Go see your auto parts store and get yourself a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual for your vehicle.
It will help you answer and solve problems without having to guess.Is a head gasket leak causing my problems?
You need to change the valve cover gaskets and it will stop that oil that is seaping through is getting the spark plugs and causing it to miss mire until it burns off that is why ts ruff on the start of your car. and the oil will only leak after its done workingcause the oil will be moveing inside so much it wont be able to leak. Now once it stops it will all leak out cause it will sit over the spot where it leaks and seep out down to your spark plug and you have to wait till burns off again. Now that is why you see little white smoke from the start of the car cause the oil that is in the cylinder is burning off and once burned all then runs perfect. take your car to change the valve cover gaskets or do it yourself it only cot like 20 bucks for the gaskets and like 200 for someone to do it.Is a head gasket leak causing my problems?
The only thing pumping the gas does in a fuel injected car is exercise your leg. Trust me on that one, it has NO effect on what the engine is doing until the engine starts.
Change the wires because moisture and oil causes them to go bad.
You might want to clean your throttle body on the car that old.
But in complete seriousness, stop wasting time pumping the gas, you only think it is what gets it to start, it's not.pets client side script
I changed the fuel filter a while back to no avail and have changed spark plugs (wires were already like new). The engine does burn some oil (i add 1 or a little more quarts per oil change), but that is normal i suspect for a 16 year old car. The oil and coolant do not mix and there is not white smoke from the exhaust (when it's warm that is, obviously you can see exhaust when it's freezing). The car used to give off a bit of blue smoke on startup but i haven't noticed this since the end of last summer. There is some oil which seeps into the wells that the spark plugs sit in which i think might come from the head gaskets. Is it possible that the oil that seeps into the wells leaks through the spark plug threads and makes them not fire until the engine has turned over a bit? the plugs look fine when i take them out though (the insulator and the electrodes are nearly perfect but the outer ring where the threads end generally have some oil on it, some cylinders pool more oil in the wells than others) so i dont know how valid this is. or maybe oil just leaks right into the cylinder where it pools a little until the first couple seconds of turning over have cleared it? this problem has perplexed most of the people i've talked to. I'd like to fix it but i dont really want to change the gaskets. The problem really doesnt have a detrimental effect and i've become quite used to just pumping the gas a few times to start. but if it is something moderately simple to fix i'd love to clear it up.Is a head gasket leak causing my problems?
Okay... To answer your oil pooling. The oil is coming from the camshaft rocker cover. Change that gasket; it is cheap and takes five minutes to fix (4-6 small bolts) and easy to get at.
Change the spark plug leads (they call them wires in the USA) and change the distributor cap, too, while you are about it. Just because they look good and clean does not mean a thing.
Best of luck.Is a head gasket leak causing my problems?
Have you had it properly tuned up by a qualified mechanic.
Until you do don't be guessing
If there is a major concern he can tell you.
Go see your auto parts store and get yourself a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual for your vehicle.
It will help you answer and solve problems without having to guess.Is a head gasket leak causing my problems?
You need to change the valve cover gaskets and it will stop that oil that is seaping through is getting the spark plugs and causing it to miss mire until it burns off that is why ts ruff on the start of your car. and the oil will only leak after its done workingcause the oil will be moveing inside so much it wont be able to leak. Now once it stops it will all leak out cause it will sit over the spot where it leaks and seep out down to your spark plug and you have to wait till burns off again. Now that is why you see little white smoke from the start of the car cause the oil that is in the cylinder is burning off and once burned all then runs perfect. take your car to change the valve cover gaskets or do it yourself it only cot like 20 bucks for the gaskets and like 200 for someone to do it.Is a head gasket leak causing my problems?
The only thing pumping the gas does in a fuel injected car is exercise your leg. Trust me on that one, it has NO effect on what the engine is doing until the engine starts.
Change the wires because moisture and oil causes them to go bad.
You might want to clean your throttle body on the car that old.
But in complete seriousness, stop wasting time pumping the gas, you only think it is what gets it to start, it's not.
1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
I was driving my CRX when she died on me. I got her to start again later, but ran extremely rough. After checking most things i found Oil in my coolant (radiator %26amp; Overflow) No coolant in my oil though. Automatically i'm thinking head gasket. I've worked on cars b4 doing small things (oil changes, plugs, wires, rotors, brakes, struts, water pump) How hard is it to do a head Gasket on 1986 CRX? Has anyone ever done one? Shes a cool little go kart of a car and does great on gas. Any advice/direction or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
the end is high.
the cylinder head could be cracked too.
its not worth the expense, trust me
finally time to get a newer car1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
wow an '86 honda crx? I know that its honda and all but even honda will eventually breakdown especially after 22 years.. just get a slightly newer car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
The head gasket replacement is not a hard job, BUT it is not a job for a novice either.
Buy a Chilton service manual. (The pro book is a better buy, Even if it is over 50.00) The 14.00 book tends to leave some blanks that I don't like.
If you have done a water pump, then I think you will be able to handle a 4 cyl. head gasket, just follow the procedure in the manual and be sure to buy new bolts or studs before you torque the head back on.
(You may want to get the head checked for warp or small cracks) It is CHEAP INSURANCE!!!
BTW, I disagree with the posts that say you need a %26quot;newer car%26quot; The CRX is a great little car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
buy new car, head gasket is a garage job, needs skimming level to gurantee a new gasket kit would fix the problem of blwon original gasket. also the head may be cracked and a new or recon head would be pricy send her to the scarp yard in the sky.
the end is high.
the cylinder head could be cracked too.
its not worth the expense, trust me
finally time to get a newer car1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
wow an '86 honda crx? I know that its honda and all but even honda will eventually breakdown especially after 22 years.. just get a slightly newer car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
The head gasket replacement is not a hard job, BUT it is not a job for a novice either.
Buy a Chilton service manual. (The pro book is a better buy, Even if it is over 50.00) The 14.00 book tends to leave some blanks that I don't like.
If you have done a water pump, then I think you will be able to handle a 4 cyl. head gasket, just follow the procedure in the manual and be sure to buy new bolts or studs before you torque the head back on.
(You may want to get the head checked for warp or small cracks) It is CHEAP INSURANCE!!!
BTW, I disagree with the posts that say you need a %26quot;newer car%26quot; The CRX is a great little car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
buy new car, head gasket is a garage job, needs skimming level to gurantee a new gasket kit would fix the problem of blwon original gasket. also the head may be cracked and a new or recon head would be pricy send her to the scarp yard in the sky.
How do I rebuild a 350 Small block with smog pump?
I want to rebuild this motor with 300k That still runs but eats a little oil.I want to remove the smog eqpt.And turn the truck into an off road vehicle and was told once I may have to change the type of carburetor due to vaccum fittings and such.Are there any good links anyone can suggest?How do I rebuild a 350 Small block with smog pump?
All you will have to do is plug off the vacuum lines and the pipe that goes to the catalytic converter. The rest of the build is the same as any other small block. Hope I have been helpful.
All you will have to do is plug off the vacuum lines and the pipe that goes to the catalytic converter. The rest of the build is the same as any other small block. Hope I have been helpful.
How can I tell if I need a thermostat or a new water pump for my 94 Honda Accord?
The engine is overheating after about thirty minutes of driving.
The oil and anti-freeze levels are fine.
The top radiator hose gets hot, as does the radiator itself.
The heater works fine, blows hot air.
From advice I received, I am gambling on changing the thermostat, but would like to be sure I'm not wasting time and money.
Also, does anyone know of any links which have videos or diagrams of how to change a 94 Honda Accord thermostat?
Thanks!How can I tell if I need a thermostat or a new water pump for my 94 Honda Accord?
start with a thermostat and see.
all you have to do is start at the top hose on your radiator and follow it to the top of your engine. under that spot of the hose is the thermostat. loosen that and take out the thermostat.
Make sure you Have a thermostat and gasket Prior to taking it apart, unless u have another way to an auto store.
The oil and anti-freeze levels are fine.
The top radiator hose gets hot, as does the radiator itself.
The heater works fine, blows hot air.
From advice I received, I am gambling on changing the thermostat, but would like to be sure I'm not wasting time and money.
Also, does anyone know of any links which have videos or diagrams of how to change a 94 Honda Accord thermostat?
Thanks!How can I tell if I need a thermostat or a new water pump for my 94 Honda Accord?
start with a thermostat and see.
all you have to do is start at the top hose on your radiator and follow it to the top of your engine. under that spot of the hose is the thermostat. loosen that and take out the thermostat.
Make sure you Have a thermostat and gasket Prior to taking it apart, unless u have another way to an auto store.
How much would you pay for this Cadillac?
A 1988 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
Grey Sedan. 502 V8, Grey interior
Good/Great condition
- New Transmission put in 2 months ago (will give you mileage, I just have to go look at what was on it when I bought it.)
- New Water Pump
- New Radiator Hoses
- New Headlights and High Beams
- Fresh Oil Change
- Full levels on all fluids
- Clean interior
- All controls work correctly
- Very little rust (can be removed if sanded and re-painted, that's it!)
- All original interior in good condition
- Comes with $300 custom car cover
Any more questions ask if you're interested..
But even if you're not, how much would you offer on a car like thisHow much would you pay for this Cadillac?
3500. Sounds like a good deal except the rust is kinda hard to fix.
Grey Sedan. 502 V8, Grey interior
Good/Great condition
- New Transmission put in 2 months ago (will give you mileage, I just have to go look at what was on it when I bought it.)
- New Water Pump
- New Radiator Hoses
- New Headlights and High Beams
- Fresh Oil Change
- Full levels on all fluids
- Clean interior
- All controls work correctly
- Very little rust (can be removed if sanded and re-painted, that's it!)
- All original interior in good condition
- Comes with $300 custom car cover
Any more questions ask if you're interested..
But even if you're not, how much would you offer on a car like thisHow much would you pay for this Cadillac?
3500. Sounds like a good deal except the rust is kinda hard to fix.
Repair costs?
I was wondering what it would cost to have the following things done to a 97 izusu rodeo 3.2 v6?
spark plugs
fuel filter
1 ignition coil pack
thermostat
timing belt
water pump
all new alternator, power steering %26amp; a/c belts
radiator
alternator
oem thermostat
cooling system flush
oil change
I am a woman who bought a haynes manual %26amp; over the last 3 weeks did all these things myself %26amp; wondered how much i saved by doing so......(and truck runs great now!)Repair costs?
you saved alot. especially when you figure in that mechanics charge anywhere from 50-100 dollars an hour
easily saved a grand maybe 2Repair costs?
Add 10% to the cost of the parts and add $50. for each hour you worked on it and that will give you a ball park figure.Repair costs?
Seeing as how you are a woman you probably saved yourself double that cost.Repair costs?
You saved a lot of money.
the timing belt job alone would've been $500 for labor, possibly more.
labor for radiator R%26amp;R, probably 1.5 hours, $120
belt replacement $75
alternator replacement 1 hour
coil pack, an hour.
You did good.. keep it up!Repair costs?
If you did all that work yourself. I'm impressed. And not because you are a woman, but because you were able to complete all of these repairs just from reading the book.
Most repair jobs come out to about double what the parts cost so take your total receipts and double that. That should tell you how much labor costs you saved.com and interop myspace pages
spark plugs
fuel filter
1 ignition coil pack
thermostat
timing belt
water pump
all new alternator, power steering %26amp; a/c belts
radiator
alternator
oem thermostat
cooling system flush
oil change
I am a woman who bought a haynes manual %26amp; over the last 3 weeks did all these things myself %26amp; wondered how much i saved by doing so......(and truck runs great now!)Repair costs?
you saved alot. especially when you figure in that mechanics charge anywhere from 50-100 dollars an hour
easily saved a grand maybe 2Repair costs?
Add 10% to the cost of the parts and add $50. for each hour you worked on it and that will give you a ball park figure.Repair costs?
Seeing as how you are a woman you probably saved yourself double that cost.Repair costs?
You saved a lot of money.
the timing belt job alone would've been $500 for labor, possibly more.
labor for radiator R%26amp;R, probably 1.5 hours, $120
belt replacement $75
alternator replacement 1 hour
coil pack, an hour.
You did good.. keep it up!Repair costs?
If you did all that work yourself. I'm impressed. And not because you are a woman, but because you were able to complete all of these repairs just from reading the book.
Most repair jobs come out to about double what the parts cost so take your total receipts and double that. That should tell you how much labor costs you saved.
Lexus is 300 2001?
my car is making really loud noise. sometime when i try to start it it has problem but will eventually start after a few turns. i took it in for an oil change and the guy notice the noise and he told me it might be the alternator or the water pump. what do u guys think and is it really serious where i need to get it fix ASAP i'm short on money and if so how much do u think it is ? a range is fine. thanksLexus is 300 2001?
Damnnnnnn, when did odometers start telling water temp? You mean the water temp. gauge is showing its at operating temp. As far as what is wrong with your car I dunno I just wanted to bust on you hahaLexus is 300 2001?
Well first things first, what kind of noise? If its a loud whining noise it could be something as simple as the cars serpentine belt or a bearing could be going bad on anything from your water pump to your alternator. There is also a chance one of the serpentine belt pulleys could be bad. If its a knocking or pecking noise then its probably something inside the engine itself which will more expensive to fix.
Damnnnnnn, when did odometers start telling water temp? You mean the water temp. gauge is showing its at operating temp. As far as what is wrong with your car I dunno I just wanted to bust on you hahaLexus is 300 2001?
Well first things first, what kind of noise? If its a loud whining noise it could be something as simple as the cars serpentine belt or a bearing could be going bad on anything from your water pump to your alternator. There is also a chance one of the serpentine belt pulleys could be bad. If its a knocking or pecking noise then its probably something inside the engine itself which will more expensive to fix.
Mechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
1. Which of the following components prevents oil from draining out of an oil filter and back down to the oil pan when the engine is shut off?
A. A pressure-relief valve
B. The oil filter mount
C. The oil filter gasket
D. An anti-drain-back valve
2. Three automotive technicians are discussing how oil should be changed in a vehicle. Technician A says that an engine should be run for a few minutes before the oil is drained from the oil pan, and then again after the oil is changed to make sure that the lubrication system is completely filled with oil. Technician B says that the engine should be completely cold when the oil is changed. Technician C says that the oil pressure indicator should be checked after the engine is filled with oil. Which of the following statements is correct?
A. Only Technician A
B. Only Technician B
C. Both Technician A and C
D. Both Technician B and C
3. In most engines, _______ are used to seal the ends of the oil galleries in order to prevent the oil from running out of the engine.
A. rear main seals
B. rubber gaskets
C. gallery plugs
D. metal washers
4. Which of the following is a possible cause of a high-oil pressure condition?
A. A worn main bearing
B. A pressure-relief valve stuck in the closed position
C. A leak at the oil pan drain plug
D. A clogged screen on the pickup tube inlet
5. The component that sends oil pressure information to the oil pressure gage on the instrument panel is called the
A. oil pump.
B. hydraulic lifters.
C. oil sender.
D. oil temperature gage
6. A motor oil's SAE rating is a measure of
A. the oil's ability to prevent rust and corrosion in an engine.
B. how easily the oil will pour at certain temperatures.
C. the amount of silicon the oil contains.
D. the oil's load-carrying ability.
7. Which of the following components removes dirt and debris from the oil before it's pressurized by the oil pump?
A. The screen on the oil pickup tube
B. The oil filter
C. The oil pan sump
D. The main oil gallery
8. Worn bearing inserts, a worn oil pump, a leak in the oil pickup tube, or a clogged pickup tube screen are all common causes of
A. low oil pressure.
B. pressurized oil leaks.
C. high oil pressure.
D. excessive oil consumption.
9. Connecting rod bearings are lubricated by oil that
A. flows through passages in the crankshaft.
B. flows up through the push rods.
C. drips out of the ends of the lifters.
D. is splashed around by the crankshaft.
10. The component that limits the amount of oil pressure that can be developed in a lubrication system is the
A. oil sender.
B. anti-drain-back valve in the oil filter.
C. pressure-relief valve in the oil pump.
D. oil pressure indicator.
11. If an engine's oil pressure is low and you hear light tapping noises at the top of the engine, the noises are usually a result of
A. high oil pressure.
B. a lack of oil in the hydraulic lifters.
C. the wrong type of oil being used in the system.
D. too much oil in the oil pan.
12. Which of the following is a likely location for a pressurized oil leak to occur?
A. In the oil pan
B. At the oil drain plug
C. At the valve cover gasket
D. At the rear main seal
13. Oil from the sump must flow through the _______ in order to reach the oil pump.
A. oil filter
B. main oil gallery
C. push rods
D. pickup tube
14. A pressure-relief valve that's stuck in the open position will cause
A. a high-oil pressure condition.
B. excessive oil consumption.
C. a high oil temperature reading.
D. a low-oil pressure condition.
15. To help keep the temperature of its oil down, the engine in a high-performance car or a heavy-duty truck may route oil through high-pressure hoses to
A. an oil cooler.
B. an oil pressure gage.
C. an oil temperature gage.
D. a remote-mounted oil filter.
16. Worn oil rings on the pistons, leaky valve seals, and worn valve guides are all possible causes of
A. high oil pressure.
B. excessive oil consumption.
C. an oil pressure indicator malfunction.
D. pressurized oil leaks.
17. The maximum allowable oil pressure in an automotive lubrication system is usually about
A. 160 psi.
B. 100 psi.
C. 60 psi.
D. 30 psi.
18. A remote oil filter mount is connected to the engine block by
A. a threaded tube.
B. a rubber gasket.
C. high-pressure rubber hoses.
D. several threaded bolts.
19. The large passageway that runs the entire length of the engine block and distributes oil to all the vital engine parts is called the
A. oil pump driveshaft.
B. main oil gallery.
C. oil sender.Mechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
1: D
2: C
3: C
4: B
5: C
6: B
7: B
8: A
9: A
10: C
11: B
12: D
13: A
14: D
15: A
16: B
17: C
18: C
19: BMechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
dccbcb,7isa and c,aacbdddabbcbMechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
1.D, 2.C, 3.A, 4.B, 5.C, 6. B, 7.A, 8.D, 9.B, 10.C, 11.B, 12.C, 13.D, 14.D, 15.A, 16.B, 17.C, 18.A, 19. B
Hope this helpsMechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
1. D 2. C 3. C 4. B 5. C 6. B 7. A 8. A 9. A 10. C 11. B 12. D
13. D 14. D 15. A 16. B 17. B 18. C 19. B
I hope I'm not doing your homework for you. GLMechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
1d,2c,3c,4b,5c,6b,7a,8a,9a,10c, 11b,12d,13d,14d,15a,16b, 17c, 18c,19b.
A. A pressure-relief valve
B. The oil filter mount
C. The oil filter gasket
D. An anti-drain-back valve
2. Three automotive technicians are discussing how oil should be changed in a vehicle. Technician A says that an engine should be run for a few minutes before the oil is drained from the oil pan, and then again after the oil is changed to make sure that the lubrication system is completely filled with oil. Technician B says that the engine should be completely cold when the oil is changed. Technician C says that the oil pressure indicator should be checked after the engine is filled with oil. Which of the following statements is correct?
A. Only Technician A
B. Only Technician B
C. Both Technician A and C
D. Both Technician B and C
3. In most engines, _______ are used to seal the ends of the oil galleries in order to prevent the oil from running out of the engine.
A. rear main seals
B. rubber gaskets
C. gallery plugs
D. metal washers
4. Which of the following is a possible cause of a high-oil pressure condition?
A. A worn main bearing
B. A pressure-relief valve stuck in the closed position
C. A leak at the oil pan drain plug
D. A clogged screen on the pickup tube inlet
5. The component that sends oil pressure information to the oil pressure gage on the instrument panel is called the
A. oil pump.
B. hydraulic lifters.
C. oil sender.
D. oil temperature gage
6. A motor oil's SAE rating is a measure of
A. the oil's ability to prevent rust and corrosion in an engine.
B. how easily the oil will pour at certain temperatures.
C. the amount of silicon the oil contains.
D. the oil's load-carrying ability.
7. Which of the following components removes dirt and debris from the oil before it's pressurized by the oil pump?
A. The screen on the oil pickup tube
B. The oil filter
C. The oil pan sump
D. The main oil gallery
8. Worn bearing inserts, a worn oil pump, a leak in the oil pickup tube, or a clogged pickup tube screen are all common causes of
A. low oil pressure.
B. pressurized oil leaks.
C. high oil pressure.
D. excessive oil consumption.
9. Connecting rod bearings are lubricated by oil that
A. flows through passages in the crankshaft.
B. flows up through the push rods.
C. drips out of the ends of the lifters.
D. is splashed around by the crankshaft.
10. The component that limits the amount of oil pressure that can be developed in a lubrication system is the
A. oil sender.
B. anti-drain-back valve in the oil filter.
C. pressure-relief valve in the oil pump.
D. oil pressure indicator.
11. If an engine's oil pressure is low and you hear light tapping noises at the top of the engine, the noises are usually a result of
A. high oil pressure.
B. a lack of oil in the hydraulic lifters.
C. the wrong type of oil being used in the system.
D. too much oil in the oil pan.
12. Which of the following is a likely location for a pressurized oil leak to occur?
A. In the oil pan
B. At the oil drain plug
C. At the valve cover gasket
D. At the rear main seal
13. Oil from the sump must flow through the _______ in order to reach the oil pump.
A. oil filter
B. main oil gallery
C. push rods
D. pickup tube
14. A pressure-relief valve that's stuck in the open position will cause
A. a high-oil pressure condition.
B. excessive oil consumption.
C. a high oil temperature reading.
D. a low-oil pressure condition.
15. To help keep the temperature of its oil down, the engine in a high-performance car or a heavy-duty truck may route oil through high-pressure hoses to
A. an oil cooler.
B. an oil pressure gage.
C. an oil temperature gage.
D. a remote-mounted oil filter.
16. Worn oil rings on the pistons, leaky valve seals, and worn valve guides are all possible causes of
A. high oil pressure.
B. excessive oil consumption.
C. an oil pressure indicator malfunction.
D. pressurized oil leaks.
17. The maximum allowable oil pressure in an automotive lubrication system is usually about
A. 160 psi.
B. 100 psi.
C. 60 psi.
D. 30 psi.
18. A remote oil filter mount is connected to the engine block by
A. a threaded tube.
B. a rubber gasket.
C. high-pressure rubber hoses.
D. several threaded bolts.
19. The large passageway that runs the entire length of the engine block and distributes oil to all the vital engine parts is called the
A. oil pump driveshaft.
B. main oil gallery.
C. oil sender.Mechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
1: D
2: C
3: C
4: B
5: C
6: B
7: B
8: A
9: A
10: C
11: B
12: D
13: A
14: D
15: A
16: B
17: C
18: C
19: BMechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
dccbcb,7isa and c,aacbdddabbcbMechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
1.D, 2.C, 3.A, 4.B, 5.C, 6. B, 7.A, 8.D, 9.B, 10.C, 11.B, 12.C, 13.D, 14.D, 15.A, 16.B, 17.C, 18.A, 19. B
Hope this helpsMechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
1. D 2. C 3. C 4. B 5. C 6. B 7. A 8. A 9. A 10. C 11. B 12. D
13. D 14. D 15. A 16. B 17. B 18. C 19. B
I hope I'm not doing your homework for you. GLMechanic quensions!! experts coming! HELP!!?
1d,2c,3c,4b,5c,6b,7a,8a,9a,10c, 11b,12d,13d,14d,15a,16b, 17c, 18c,19b.
I have a 1996 saturn wagon with a 1.9 liter engine. I was wondering how much to ask for it since im selling it
I just replaced both oxygen sensors overhauled the transmission and replaced the fuel pump and also kept strict maintenance on it ie oil change plugs wires all the required stuff. I have all the paper work for it and it runs and looks like a new car. It has 80,000 original miles and i thought since it gets 26/33 hwy mpg people might be more interested in it since gas is going to 4 dollars a gallon. any suggestions on pricing it? 1,000 2,000???I have a 1996 saturn wagon with a 1.9 liter engine. I was wondering how much to ask for it since im selling it
Check NADA.com, low retail on a '96 Saturn like yours runs at least $1,875 minimum.
BTW, excellent gas mileage, why would you sell a car like that? You should try to keep it.I have a 1996 saturn wagon with a 1.9 liter engine. I was wondering how much to ask for it since im selling it
check out www.kbb.com you can not go wrong when you know the blue book value on your carI have a 1996 saturn wagon with a 1.9 liter engine. I was wondering how much to ask for it since im selling it
Check the trader paper. See what they sell for in there.I have a 1996 saturn wagon with a 1.9 liter engine. I was wondering how much to ask for it since im selling it
Check Online Kelly Bluebook etc. I bet you could at least get 3 grand for it
Check NADA.com, low retail on a '96 Saturn like yours runs at least $1,875 minimum.
BTW, excellent gas mileage, why would you sell a car like that? You should try to keep it.I have a 1996 saturn wagon with a 1.9 liter engine. I was wondering how much to ask for it since im selling it
check out www.kbb.com you can not go wrong when you know the blue book value on your carI have a 1996 saturn wagon with a 1.9 liter engine. I was wondering how much to ask for it since im selling it
Check the trader paper. See what they sell for in there.I have a 1996 saturn wagon with a 1.9 liter engine. I was wondering how much to ask for it since im selling it
Check Online Kelly Bluebook etc. I bet you could at least get 3 grand for it
2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
hi, my dads grand am just went out.
the mechanic said it was the water pump and it was leaking.
my dad went into jiffy lube to get an oil change, and when he leaves the low coolant light comes on!
personally, that car was in tip top shape, i inspected it myself.
now , they gave him a quote of 750 for the part and labor. is that reasonable??
how much should it cost?2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
What engine is in it and where do you live? A water pump job in Knoxville Tn probably costs half as much as one in Las vegas or L.A.
Edit - Alright the first 2 are lost. The northstar motor water pump although it takes a special socket is pretty damn easy, The other dosnt know any thing about gm products either, A 2.4 guad motor, Usually found in a g- am ( I own one) Has to have the timing chain removed in order to replace w pump. Not less than an hour job more like a 5.2 hr job.2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
holy heartfailure batman!
750 to change a water pump? no that is not reasonable. you can change the water pump on that motor in less than an hour if your good that should be maybe 150 tops.
dont tell me im lost mr %26quot;im ase certified%26quot;. ive worked on gm my whole life. i was thinking about the 3400 motor. i put in my answer before he put in details 2.4l 4cyl.
and to the asker yes water pump job is in with the timing belt on the 4 banger, it takes longer it will cost more in labor.
you can get a better price than that though. thats still ridiculous, its not that hard.2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
Terribly sorry, this can happen any time, but certainly you would expect higher mileage, if that is the case, but still, yes a water pump may leak and need replacing. Perhaps you can get another estimate and save some - I believe it should be cheaper - that sounds like a whole rad job too!2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
honestly i think thats way to much cause the part it self is less then $100 so there is no way labor is $650. The only motor that I know of that would cost that much is the northstar motor which are in cadillacs. Take it some where else2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
first of allnone knows what engine u have without that info how can u say it will take less than 2 hours if u do not have that info the price could b ok n it could b 2 high just like the second guy said if it has 4 tech motor price is 2 high if it has quad 4 motor price ok2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
SOUND A LITTLE, BUT THAT WATER PUMP RUN OFF THE TIMING GEAR, A PAIN TO WORK ON. GO TO THE LIBRARY AND GET ON ALL-DATA IT WILL GIVE YOU THE AMOUNT OF TIME AND COST FOR THE REPAIR
the mechanic said it was the water pump and it was leaking.
my dad went into jiffy lube to get an oil change, and when he leaves the low coolant light comes on!
personally, that car was in tip top shape, i inspected it myself.
now , they gave him a quote of 750 for the part and labor. is that reasonable??
how much should it cost?2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
What engine is in it and where do you live? A water pump job in Knoxville Tn probably costs half as much as one in Las vegas or L.A.
Edit - Alright the first 2 are lost. The northstar motor water pump although it takes a special socket is pretty damn easy, The other dosnt know any thing about gm products either, A 2.4 guad motor, Usually found in a g- am ( I own one) Has to have the timing chain removed in order to replace w pump. Not less than an hour job more like a 5.2 hr job.2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
holy heartfailure batman!
750 to change a water pump? no that is not reasonable. you can change the water pump on that motor in less than an hour if your good that should be maybe 150 tops.
dont tell me im lost mr %26quot;im ase certified%26quot;. ive worked on gm my whole life. i was thinking about the 3400 motor. i put in my answer before he put in details 2.4l 4cyl.
and to the asker yes water pump job is in with the timing belt on the 4 banger, it takes longer it will cost more in labor.
you can get a better price than that though. thats still ridiculous, its not that hard.2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
Terribly sorry, this can happen any time, but certainly you would expect higher mileage, if that is the case, but still, yes a water pump may leak and need replacing. Perhaps you can get another estimate and save some - I believe it should be cheaper - that sounds like a whole rad job too!2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
honestly i think thats way to much cause the part it self is less then $100 so there is no way labor is $650. The only motor that I know of that would cost that much is the northstar motor which are in cadillacs. Take it some where else2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
first of allnone knows what engine u have without that info how can u say it will take less than 2 hours if u do not have that info the price could b ok n it could b 2 high just like the second guy said if it has 4 tech motor price is 2 high if it has quad 4 motor price ok2000 Pontiac Grand Am.. i need help?
SOUND A LITTLE, BUT THAT WATER PUMP RUN OFF THE TIMING GEAR, A PAIN TO WORK ON. GO TO THE LIBRARY AND GET ON ALL-DATA IT WILL GIVE YOU THE AMOUNT OF TIME AND COST FOR THE REPAIR
How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
How can I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run smoother?
It has 68k original miles. Bought the car for $1900 and it runs but nothing else work (windows, clock, lights, etc). Just some surface rust. I changed, plugs, wires, rotors. Just bought a fuel pump, high volume oil pump and water pump. Every mechanic says it runs strong but I would like for it to run smoother!
Other than rebuilding the engine (Because the engine runs strong and its Mileage) what other things can I change out on it to have it run better before I rebuild the front end and paint it? And also where can I get the parts from?
Also, if you have a front windshield let me know Email: emeka2345@aol.comHow do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
You don't mention which engine you have, but, I had an old Lincoln with a 460 and it took a new carburetor to make her run right. As the old sayin' goes, She would pass anything but a gas station after that. Good Luck!How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
Replace it with a 1972 Chevrolet Monte Carlo.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
Check all your vacuum hoses for cracks and leaks...do the basics by testing the compression first and making sure you do not have a low cylinder causing the engine to not run smoothly....then take your 400 lb suicide door and smash that ol 72 Monte into the ground.....jk....good luckHow do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
In 1966, engines didn't have a lot of electronic controls, so 'rough idle' was a common problem. Basically, this is a Ford product, so you might be able to retrofit it with throttle body fuel injection and electronic ignition. Check for vacuum leaks and have the compression tested. This is important, because you might have some leaky or sticky valves, carbon buildup which raises compression or variations between cylinders. Check out the electrical system before you invest much more in the car. Also be sure the distributor cap is clean and that the distributor vacuum advance is working.
Finally, keep in mind that this car was probably designed to run on high octane, leaded (premium) gas. That is a problem, because it has probably been de-tuned to use lower octane unleaded. As I recall, unleaded gas also causes excessive wear on the valve stems and guides. If you want to keep it all original, for show, then you probably don't want to upgrade the engine and go to fuel injection. If you want to drive it daily, the improved fuel economy should be a good reason to modernize the engine controls. Look for parts from a later model, with the same size engine.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
being a mel (mercury, edsel, lincoln) block engine, if it were me i would just replace the carburetor with a 600 cfm edelbrock if the compression test checks out. if it doesnt then pull the engine and build a 460 for it. youll be in much less money building a 460 than a mel block.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
REBUILD THE CARBURETOR.designs on your real nails client side script
It has 68k original miles. Bought the car for $1900 and it runs but nothing else work (windows, clock, lights, etc). Just some surface rust. I changed, plugs, wires, rotors. Just bought a fuel pump, high volume oil pump and water pump. Every mechanic says it runs strong but I would like for it to run smoother!
Other than rebuilding the engine (Because the engine runs strong and its Mileage) what other things can I change out on it to have it run better before I rebuild the front end and paint it? And also where can I get the parts from?
Also, if you have a front windshield let me know Email: emeka2345@aol.comHow do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
You don't mention which engine you have, but, I had an old Lincoln with a 460 and it took a new carburetor to make her run right. As the old sayin' goes, She would pass anything but a gas station after that. Good Luck!How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
Replace it with a 1972 Chevrolet Monte Carlo.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
Check all your vacuum hoses for cracks and leaks...do the basics by testing the compression first and making sure you do not have a low cylinder causing the engine to not run smoothly....then take your 400 lb suicide door and smash that ol 72 Monte into the ground.....jk....good luckHow do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
In 1966, engines didn't have a lot of electronic controls, so 'rough idle' was a common problem. Basically, this is a Ford product, so you might be able to retrofit it with throttle body fuel injection and electronic ignition. Check for vacuum leaks and have the compression tested. This is important, because you might have some leaky or sticky valves, carbon buildup which raises compression or variations between cylinders. Check out the electrical system before you invest much more in the car. Also be sure the distributor cap is clean and that the distributor vacuum advance is working.
Finally, keep in mind that this car was probably designed to run on high octane, leaded (premium) gas. That is a problem, because it has probably been de-tuned to use lower octane unleaded. As I recall, unleaded gas also causes excessive wear on the valve stems and guides. If you want to keep it all original, for show, then you probably don't want to upgrade the engine and go to fuel injection. If you want to drive it daily, the improved fuel economy should be a good reason to modernize the engine controls. Look for parts from a later model, with the same size engine.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
being a mel (mercury, edsel, lincoln) block engine, if it were me i would just replace the carburetor with a 600 cfm edelbrock if the compression test checks out. if it doesnt then pull the engine and build a 460 for it. youll be in much less money building a 460 than a mel block.How do I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run better?
REBUILD THE CARBURETOR.
How much should I ask for my 95 Mitsubichi Expo Mini Van?
No rust, paint is chipping bad, no dents, pretty good interior,
6 seats, all wheel drive, keeps stalling and using alot of gas. The tranny seems to be going, it's an automatic. Has a new timing belt, new water pump, major tune up, past due on the oil change but never leaked a drop of oil. It's got 185,000 miles. I'm in Spokane Valley, WA. I've got $999. as the price right now. I want a cheap economical car that goes forever and has room to hall and has room for me and my 16 yr old, my 18 yr old and my 11 yr old.How much should I ask for my 95 Mitsubichi Expo Mini Van?
$900 or best offer... take no less than $750 though...How much should I ask for my 95 Mitsubichi Expo Mini Van?
well, kelly blue book of that car in fair condition is about $2000. But you will get much less than that, first off, there are many problems with it. The transmission is going out, it is stalling and needs an oil change. On top of that, it is a mistubishi (known for the lack of reliability) and it haa 185,000 miles. So, your $900 sale price is pretty close to what to expect. If you are looking for a %26quot;cheap economical car that goes forever and has room to hall and has room for me and my 16 yr old, my 18 yr old and my 11 yr old%26quot; then go with a honda civic. They run forever and have a high gas millege. Also it has room for 4.
6 seats, all wheel drive, keeps stalling and using alot of gas. The tranny seems to be going, it's an automatic. Has a new timing belt, new water pump, major tune up, past due on the oil change but never leaked a drop of oil. It's got 185,000 miles. I'm in Spokane Valley, WA. I've got $999. as the price right now. I want a cheap economical car that goes forever and has room to hall and has room for me and my 16 yr old, my 18 yr old and my 11 yr old.How much should I ask for my 95 Mitsubichi Expo Mini Van?
$900 or best offer... take no less than $750 though...How much should I ask for my 95 Mitsubichi Expo Mini Van?
well, kelly blue book of that car in fair condition is about $2000. But you will get much less than that, first off, there are many problems with it. The transmission is going out, it is stalling and needs an oil change. On top of that, it is a mistubishi (known for the lack of reliability) and it haa 185,000 miles. So, your $900 sale price is pretty close to what to expect. If you are looking for a %26quot;cheap economical car that goes forever and has room to hall and has room for me and my 16 yr old, my 18 yr old and my 11 yr old%26quot; then go with a honda civic. They run forever and have a high gas millege. Also it has room for 4.
How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
I have a pontiac grand am its a 1999 it has about 123,000 miles on it. I have had work done on it including a new alternator and fuel pump and brake work.
But lately it has been doing just fine with regular oil changes but up to how many miles roughly would you say it will run okay? I remember my dad's buick almost got up to 200,000 miles. I would just like to know what usually are the first signs the car is not worth driving anymore because I don't want to spend that much money in its late years rather than just selling it.
ThanksHow long do you think my car will live for? lol?
As long as you don't beat the car you should be able to get 250K out of it.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
My parents had a dodge that ran well over 250k miles, then my brother wrecked it... and it still ran!
If you take good care of it, and don't beat on it, it should last a long time. If you can't tell somethings wrong with it, no shaking or odd noises, it should last a long time.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
If you take care of it the car can go up to when the computer dies, and that could be a very long time. Besides is a 99 the value must be low if you want to sell. Having a new car will cost you less, since as vehicles age parts wear down. At 123,000 miles and counting you will have to do bearings, exhaust, tune the engine more often, gaskets begin to wear down, water might start to leak into the engine if not looked after can damage your engine, cooling system overhaul not including radiator because it should last you longer than the car in theory, suspension components replacement, transmission fluid flush more often, electrical problems as cars age so do cables, wiper motor, fuel injectors, that's about it are you willing to spend all this money or will you rather get a new car? GOOD LUCK ON your decision, I would suggest getting a new car......How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
250000 miles is not so great - many European cars can
double that.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
it all depends on how well you keep up with the maintenance, the better you take care of your car the better it will take car of you.....How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
it will live as long as you want it to, that is, if you are willing to put major money.
i believe a car isnt worth keeping anymore when you are putting more money towards repairs than you would be for a new car payment.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
Take care of the car and it will take care of you. Routine maintenance will go a long way towards your car lasting upwards of 200,000 miles. Sounds like you have already replaced the most common parts. I would keep it serviced and drive it a while longer.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
well when it starts to shitt itself then youll know its time to go
a few basic repairs doesnt mean the car is going to die, a brake service is stuff all, and a fuel pump ,i reckon you could of put that in yourself, the things is when you start seeing white smoke out the tail pipe or if it runs like crap after a oil drop..get rid off it while u can or deal with the cracked head and big pay out later...seeya
But lately it has been doing just fine with regular oil changes but up to how many miles roughly would you say it will run okay? I remember my dad's buick almost got up to 200,000 miles. I would just like to know what usually are the first signs the car is not worth driving anymore because I don't want to spend that much money in its late years rather than just selling it.
ThanksHow long do you think my car will live for? lol?
As long as you don't beat the car you should be able to get 250K out of it.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
My parents had a dodge that ran well over 250k miles, then my brother wrecked it... and it still ran!
If you take good care of it, and don't beat on it, it should last a long time. If you can't tell somethings wrong with it, no shaking or odd noises, it should last a long time.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
If you take care of it the car can go up to when the computer dies, and that could be a very long time. Besides is a 99 the value must be low if you want to sell. Having a new car will cost you less, since as vehicles age parts wear down. At 123,000 miles and counting you will have to do bearings, exhaust, tune the engine more often, gaskets begin to wear down, water might start to leak into the engine if not looked after can damage your engine, cooling system overhaul not including radiator because it should last you longer than the car in theory, suspension components replacement, transmission fluid flush more often, electrical problems as cars age so do cables, wiper motor, fuel injectors, that's about it are you willing to spend all this money or will you rather get a new car? GOOD LUCK ON your decision, I would suggest getting a new car......How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
250000 miles is not so great - many European cars can
double that.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
it all depends on how well you keep up with the maintenance, the better you take care of your car the better it will take car of you.....How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
it will live as long as you want it to, that is, if you are willing to put major money.
i believe a car isnt worth keeping anymore when you are putting more money towards repairs than you would be for a new car payment.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
Take care of the car and it will take care of you. Routine maintenance will go a long way towards your car lasting upwards of 200,000 miles. Sounds like you have already replaced the most common parts. I would keep it serviced and drive it a while longer.How long do you think my car will live for? lol?
well when it starts to shitt itself then youll know its time to go
a few basic repairs doesnt mean the car is going to die, a brake service is stuff all, and a fuel pump ,i reckon you could of put that in yourself, the things is when you start seeing white smoke out the tail pipe or if it runs like crap after a oil drop..get rid off it while u can or deal with the cracked head and big pay out later...seeya
My automatic transmission does not kick into gear sometimes, why is that?
I have a Grand Prix where the transmission doesn't engage when I start the car up for the first time. I have to put it in gear and then rev the engine up real high and then suddenly click! the car slips into gear and everything is fine until the next day after the car has been sitting for a while.
So is this just gunk clogging the mechanism or am I experiencing some permanent damage, or the start of permanent damage? After it starts working then it works great no matter how long I drive it until I park it for a few hours that is...
Would it help to change my automatic transmission fluid with a siphon pump, or will it leave too much gunk in the pan even if I do that? I was thinking of taking it to the service station for a tranmission fluid change but it is rather costly compared to an oil change. But before I do that could it help if I siphone changed the transmission fluid? How much cleaner would things get?My automatic transmission does not kick into gear sometimes, why is that?
Your first concern is fluid level, and condition.
If the level is OK, check the fluid closely for its appearance and smell. Normal fluid will be red in color and have a clean petroleum sort of smell. If it has a lot of shavings in it and smells burned, it is too late for an oil change as the damage is already done. If this is the case, just plan on getting another transmission in the near future, watch the oil level, and drive her 'til she blows.
To change the transmission oil without dropping the pan is a waste of time, as there is a filter in the trany which can only be replaced by dropping the pan. If that filter plugs up, it can cause the problem of a delayed shift like you described. If you drop the pan, and there's big piles of shavings on the magnet (little bit is normal), that trany is getting worn out.My automatic transmission does not kick into gear sometimes, why is that?
I assume you have already checked that the fluid is filled to the correct level. I also assume that you have over 60,000 miles on this car.
The transmission fluid filter is getting clogged. Drain the transmission fluid. Remove the pan on the bottom of the transmission. Clean the pan. Replace the filter. Fill transmission fluid to the corrrect level.
When you clean the transmission fluid pan it is not unusual to find a lot of gunk ans even some metal shavings in the pan and the filter.My automatic transmission does not kick into gear sometimes, why is that?
The problem you described is caused by low fuild level.
If you do decide to change the fluid, do it the right way and take the pan off. There is a small filter inside that you need to change.
So is this just gunk clogging the mechanism or am I experiencing some permanent damage, or the start of permanent damage? After it starts working then it works great no matter how long I drive it until I park it for a few hours that is...
Would it help to change my automatic transmission fluid with a siphon pump, or will it leave too much gunk in the pan even if I do that? I was thinking of taking it to the service station for a tranmission fluid change but it is rather costly compared to an oil change. But before I do that could it help if I siphone changed the transmission fluid? How much cleaner would things get?My automatic transmission does not kick into gear sometimes, why is that?
Your first concern is fluid level, and condition.
If the level is OK, check the fluid closely for its appearance and smell. Normal fluid will be red in color and have a clean petroleum sort of smell. If it has a lot of shavings in it and smells burned, it is too late for an oil change as the damage is already done. If this is the case, just plan on getting another transmission in the near future, watch the oil level, and drive her 'til she blows.
To change the transmission oil without dropping the pan is a waste of time, as there is a filter in the trany which can only be replaced by dropping the pan. If that filter plugs up, it can cause the problem of a delayed shift like you described. If you drop the pan, and there's big piles of shavings on the magnet (little bit is normal), that trany is getting worn out.My automatic transmission does not kick into gear sometimes, why is that?
I assume you have already checked that the fluid is filled to the correct level. I also assume that you have over 60,000 miles on this car.
The transmission fluid filter is getting clogged. Drain the transmission fluid. Remove the pan on the bottom of the transmission. Clean the pan. Replace the filter. Fill transmission fluid to the corrrect level.
When you clean the transmission fluid pan it is not unusual to find a lot of gunk ans even some metal shavings in the pan and the filter.My automatic transmission does not kick into gear sometimes, why is that?
The problem you described is caused by low fuild level.
If you do decide to change the fluid, do it the right way and take the pan off. There is a small filter inside that you need to change.
How can I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run smoother?
It has 68k original miles. Bought the car for $1900 and it runs but nothing else work (windows, clock, lights, etc). Just some surface rust. I changed, plugs, wires, rotors. Just bought a fuel pump, high volume oil pump and water pump. Every mechanic says it runs strong but I would like for it to run smoother!
Other than rebuilding the engine (Because the engine runs strong and its Mileage) what other things can I change out on it to have it run better before I rebuild the front end and paint it? And also where can I get the parts from?
Also, if you have a front windshield let me know Email: emeka2345@aol.comHow can I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run smoother?
Replace the points and condensor, check the coil.
Other than rebuilding the engine (Because the engine runs strong and its Mileage) what other things can I change out on it to have it run better before I rebuild the front end and paint it? And also where can I get the parts from?
Also, if you have a front windshield let me know Email: emeka2345@aol.comHow can I get my 1966 Lincoln Continental to run smoother?
Replace the points and condensor, check the coil.
Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
Ok my mate has a 1985 Mazda 323 Auto Hatch. Had a look at it for him and noticed it was backfiring in the intake manifold. The engine stalls at idle and takes a little to get turned over, if the pedal is held steady the engine will only backfire now and then. But anytime you accelerate it keeps backfiring (intake not exhaust). So of course the engine isn't running to happily.
Reading up a bit about it says it could be timing, worn/damaged intake valves, valves sticking, too much lean mixture, spark timing is out (too advanced) and so on.
Anyways I want to know how to diagnose all these things on the car to find out whats wrong so it can be fixed. So could you please provide semi-detailed instructions on how to diagnose/test each component to find the cause of the problem.
Bit of car history:
Car had been pretty much sitting in same spot for about a year. Car was on empty so new fuel has been put in so there's no stale fuel running in it. Now since some smart top notch mechanic thought it would be a good idea to replace the PCV valve with just a normal piece of pipe (without the valve) nice black oil has been running through the engine (wrecked the air cleaner as-well obviously). The oil level was over double what it was meant to be as-well which probably helped assist in pumping oil into the pipe. Anyways changed engine oil and filter including spark plugs(since they we're covered in oil). Now my mate took the spark plug leads off the dizzy and spark plugs without labeling them, I found the firing order in the manual and told him to put it on that order on the dizzy clockwise if that makes sense. The engine starts and runs (obviously doesn't run 2 happy) but when u hold it steady its as if the engine is fine. But is it somehow possible the order is still messed up?? Or am i just being dumb. I'm only assuming due to the intake backfiring problems, just in-case the order is messed up. I didn't get around to checking that I only just thought of it then.
Please people only answer if your a qualified mechanic who knows what there talking about.. I want someone who's actually smart who knows what there talking about when it comes to cars. Especially older ones like these. Don't just say 'check your timing' I want to know how to check my timing for this particular car. Also things like 'take it to a mechanic' and so on.
Cheers, need to know anything else let me know :DDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
The very first thing I would be doing is making CERTAIN that you've got those leads on the right way. Ok, you've got the firing order, so now you need to find out which way the distributor spins, don't just assume it's clockwise. Take the dizzy cap off and get your friend to turn the engine over, then you'll be sure of it's rotational direction, and you'll be able to put the leads on in the right order.
Then find the timing mark on the crank pulley by rotating the engine over by hand using a breaker bar and a socket on the crank pulley bolt. The mark will be a notch in the pulley, mark it with a white paint marker, or just give it a good scratch with a screwdriver, just to make it a little easier to see. There will be a timing mark on the timing cover that will need to line up with the crank pulley's mark during the test, make sure this is easy to see as well. Some cars have multiple marks on the timing cover to show varying degrees of timing advance, in this case find the correct setting in the manual and put a dab of paint on the correct timing mark.
Connect a timing light to the spark lead on cylinder1 (the inductive pick-up on the timing light is directional, face the arrow towards the sparkplug-side of the lead), and start the engine. Aim the timing light at the crank pulley and make sure your marks line up. If they don't, loosen off the dizzy bolt and turn the dizzy until they do. Your timing won't be entirely accurate just yet, you should always do the final timing adjustment with the engine at normal operating temperature, with the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged, and with all electrical accessories turned off, but this will give you a base mark, and the car should run ok.
Usually backfiring in the inlet is caused by retarded timing, don't jump straight to the timing belt since this is a big job, but after you have checked the simple things, consider the belt as a possibility. Based on what you've told me, I personally think you've got the spark plug leads on the wrong way, but diagnosing things over the internet is a bastard, and it's been ages since I've worked on an old Mazda and I can't remember which way the dizzy is meant to spin.
Good luck with it.
EDIT:
Oh btw, somebody mentioned the MAF meter as a possibility. Don't consider checking it, since a 1985 Mazda 323 doesn't have one :-)Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
type into search box
how to check
add any of these words
timing
intake valves
fuel mixture
yuo can find most car repairs by typing
how to check
how to remove
how to install
how to repair
name a partDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
It sounds like you have some of the spark wires on the wrong plugsDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
autozone.com
and find how to see if the timming belt or chain has sliped.Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
with out much reading into the problem the car has been siting for some time and its 1985 Model year if me mere service me right it has a timing belt and overhead cams right and left the belt has slip ed and is out of time to fix you will need to replace the belt and reset the timing marks on the cams and the crank shaft hope that your up to the job if not get tech manual to help you out for it is a long proses and for my SLF with 30 years and all the tools takes me a good 8 hr to do the job right PS you will also whant to check the belt tensaner and posable whant to change it as wall at the same time along with some heater hoses in the near by area water colant tubemay be getting rusted out and the colant may also need to be replaced as wallDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
I was glad to see in your additional details that you straightened out the firing order. I knew it would be that when you said that all plug wires were off. Many engines in fact have more than one firing order.
What you're going to have to do about the timing is clean off the timing marker by getting underneath the car. Then get yourself some white nail polish and fill up the notch with the timing mark is. You should be able to see it pretty easily now. I cannot understand why the markings would not be there, so just look a little closer. There's got to be a notch there somewhere.
Other than that, I'm not going to explain how to check ignition timing, just open up a book, they will tell you.
It's pretty doubtful for a timing belt or chain to slip. I'm not saying that it never happens, but it is suspected much more than it is actual. Your belt or chain will have had to been loose beyond the tensioners ability for at least 40,000 miles for it to get that loose to where it may possibly skip. In all of my experience I have only witnessed this one time. It was on a Nissan 200SX that had over 200,000 miles on it with the belt never changed.
Since you say the crankcase ventilation was straight without a valve, there's a good likelihood that the engine has got a lot of carbon deposits built up in the combustion chamber. A situation like that would make any engine run very poorly, so you might want to clean that up with either some seafoam cleaner. A lot of mechanics use ATF. ATF does work excellent, but I can't recommend it because I don't know whether and not it is good for the environment, or rather bad for the environment.
Back to the belt or chain. To answer your question as to what to do to find out whether or not the belt or chain has slipped. You need to either move the timing case cover, or the cover of the timing belt, whatever it be named on that engine. Check the tension on the belt or chain. If there is any tension at all on it, it's highly unlikely that it has skipped. If there is more than three quarters of an inch of play on the loose side of the chain or belt, then I would be suspicious. Skipping usually happens when it is possible by a sudden deceleration from acceleration state. Then suddenly the engine runs profoundly different. Will not idle unless you keep your foot on the accelerator, and is very hard starting. Or, the engine will start and race very high. At least 1500 RPM above normal. When you try to accelerate, it tends to stall out. It's possible, but you don't see it very often.Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
You said you have a manual, or at least that is the way I understood it perhaps you were only reading from the internet if you were then first purchase a manual for the car. Then go to a parts store and they will rent you a timing light usually giving you back your deposit when you return the tool. Look in the manual for your particular engine and follow timing procedures, it does sound as though the timing is out a couple of teeth probably why it was parked in the first place. As far as your empty tank being full of fresh fuel, if you didn't clean the tank out then because it was empty it was able to rust in a much wider area however the fuel filter, if it was also replaced, should stop most of the trash it's the plugging up that you will have to worry about. The firing order as well as rotation you will find in the manual as well.Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
Have a close look at your manifold.is it in two parts,is the inlet and exhaust pipes bolted together and has a thin plate between them ,that is called the hot spot plate that warms the fuel as it enters the engine,when this plate gets corroded or burned through and creates a small pin hole in it,that allows the hot exhaust gasses through into the inlet and you get bang bang if you have that type of manifoldsDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
The easiest way to CHECK timing on a 4 cylinder is to pull the valve cover (pull the plugs first) then put a long socket extension in cylinder 1's plug hole (so it sticks out; spin the crank pulley by hand until the extension is at the apex of travel (the highest travel point) that's TDC (top dead center). At this point the arrow/marking on your camshaft(s) should be completely visible and in it's original position (which is parallel to the head (the long portion). If it's not the timing needs to be adjusted so that TDC has the cam(s) marking parallel to the head. Give or take a degree or two SHOULDN'T be a big deal.Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
Wow! Most do not give near enough information but sometimes too much and a series of events can be hard to follow. I assume %26quot;dizzy%26quot; is the distributor and or cap?
--You asked for it so I will oblige you some.
----Many things can cause an engine to backfire and poor/bad fuel, or lack of fuel/too much fuel, vacuum leaks, bad sensors, and timing, are some.
--1)- You must ensure the basics. The vehicle was sitting a long time. It was on %26quot;empty so you put new fuel in it so you assume, %26quot;there's no stale fuel running in it.%26quot;. If you do not know it ran totally out of fuel this could be a very false assumption.
--A vehicle on empty, especially if it has a low fuel light, can have up to a gallon of fuel. If the fuel was bad(past stale), evidenced by a strong bad fuel smell, there was water in what fuel was left, or both, you could still have problems. even if the vehicle was filled with new fuel it would be what--10 or so gallons? One gallon of bad fuel would be detrimental. If only a few gallons were put in it then it would be worse.
--2)- You monkeyed with the P.V.C and oil was sucked into the air filter. There is a possibility that the mass air flow meter was contaminated.
--I could write several pages on cause and effect but will keep it relatively simple. The M.A.F. measures the air intake and with other sensors is used to adjust air intake, fuel, and timing, to ensure near 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio. This ratio is referred to as stoichiometric or fuel stoichiometry. This varies a little on some newer emission controlled vehicles. At sea level and the proper temperature all fuel will(theoretically) burn with 14.7 parts air and 1 part fuel.
--3)- If the M.A.F. sensor is weighted down with oil it will cause a back fire. Normally this would cause a sever lack of air with too much fuel(flooding) but on newer vehicles the sensors will adjust for this and cut the injector firing time down to compensate and can cause lean misfire..
--4)- Clogged fuel filter(lack of fuel). Pull it off and at least inspect. This is a maintenance item so should be replaced.
--5)- A bad vacuum leak(lean again) and very important
--Before you can go into the theory of mechanical engineering you have to begin with the basics. All of the above(also timing), can cause a lean misfire which would cause a backfire. Check these out, be ----100% ----certain, and if you still have a problem repost concerning the timing.
--Is there a check/service engine soon light on? This would mean a code is stored and can futher complicate things.
--I am no longer a technician(mechanic with speciality degrees) so I hope my lack of current qualifications does not hinder my ideas. In my defense I was A.S.E. certified in many areas including factory on-board computer diagnostics and repair training.
--I feel that my studies in stoichiometry placed me at the head of the class as obtainng this on a vehicle can either gain the ultimate fuel economy and performace or the ultimate power for racing.grow hair favorite software program
Reading up a bit about it says it could be timing, worn/damaged intake valves, valves sticking, too much lean mixture, spark timing is out (too advanced) and so on.
Anyways I want to know how to diagnose all these things on the car to find out whats wrong so it can be fixed. So could you please provide semi-detailed instructions on how to diagnose/test each component to find the cause of the problem.
Bit of car history:
Car had been pretty much sitting in same spot for about a year. Car was on empty so new fuel has been put in so there's no stale fuel running in it. Now since some smart top notch mechanic thought it would be a good idea to replace the PCV valve with just a normal piece of pipe (without the valve) nice black oil has been running through the engine (wrecked the air cleaner as-well obviously). The oil level was over double what it was meant to be as-well which probably helped assist in pumping oil into the pipe. Anyways changed engine oil and filter including spark plugs(since they we're covered in oil). Now my mate took the spark plug leads off the dizzy and spark plugs without labeling them, I found the firing order in the manual and told him to put it on that order on the dizzy clockwise if that makes sense. The engine starts and runs (obviously doesn't run 2 happy) but when u hold it steady its as if the engine is fine. But is it somehow possible the order is still messed up?? Or am i just being dumb. I'm only assuming due to the intake backfiring problems, just in-case the order is messed up. I didn't get around to checking that I only just thought of it then.
Please people only answer if your a qualified mechanic who knows what there talking about.. I want someone who's actually smart who knows what there talking about when it comes to cars. Especially older ones like these. Don't just say 'check your timing' I want to know how to check my timing for this particular car. Also things like 'take it to a mechanic' and so on.
Cheers, need to know anything else let me know :DDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
The very first thing I would be doing is making CERTAIN that you've got those leads on the right way. Ok, you've got the firing order, so now you need to find out which way the distributor spins, don't just assume it's clockwise. Take the dizzy cap off and get your friend to turn the engine over, then you'll be sure of it's rotational direction, and you'll be able to put the leads on in the right order.
Then find the timing mark on the crank pulley by rotating the engine over by hand using a breaker bar and a socket on the crank pulley bolt. The mark will be a notch in the pulley, mark it with a white paint marker, or just give it a good scratch with a screwdriver, just to make it a little easier to see. There will be a timing mark on the timing cover that will need to line up with the crank pulley's mark during the test, make sure this is easy to see as well. Some cars have multiple marks on the timing cover to show varying degrees of timing advance, in this case find the correct setting in the manual and put a dab of paint on the correct timing mark.
Connect a timing light to the spark lead on cylinder1 (the inductive pick-up on the timing light is directional, face the arrow towards the sparkplug-side of the lead), and start the engine. Aim the timing light at the crank pulley and make sure your marks line up. If they don't, loosen off the dizzy bolt and turn the dizzy until they do. Your timing won't be entirely accurate just yet, you should always do the final timing adjustment with the engine at normal operating temperature, with the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged, and with all electrical accessories turned off, but this will give you a base mark, and the car should run ok.
Usually backfiring in the inlet is caused by retarded timing, don't jump straight to the timing belt since this is a big job, but after you have checked the simple things, consider the belt as a possibility. Based on what you've told me, I personally think you've got the spark plug leads on the wrong way, but diagnosing things over the internet is a bastard, and it's been ages since I've worked on an old Mazda and I can't remember which way the dizzy is meant to spin.
Good luck with it.
EDIT:
Oh btw, somebody mentioned the MAF meter as a possibility. Don't consider checking it, since a 1985 Mazda 323 doesn't have one :-)Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
type into search box
how to check
add any of these words
timing
intake valves
fuel mixture
yuo can find most car repairs by typing
how to check
how to remove
how to install
how to repair
name a partDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
It sounds like you have some of the spark wires on the wrong plugsDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
autozone.com
and find how to see if the timming belt or chain has sliped.Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
with out much reading into the problem the car has been siting for some time and its 1985 Model year if me mere service me right it has a timing belt and overhead cams right and left the belt has slip ed and is out of time to fix you will need to replace the belt and reset the timing marks on the cams and the crank shaft hope that your up to the job if not get tech manual to help you out for it is a long proses and for my SLF with 30 years and all the tools takes me a good 8 hr to do the job right PS you will also whant to check the belt tensaner and posable whant to change it as wall at the same time along with some heater hoses in the near by area water colant tubemay be getting rusted out and the colant may also need to be replaced as wallDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
I was glad to see in your additional details that you straightened out the firing order. I knew it would be that when you said that all plug wires were off. Many engines in fact have more than one firing order.
What you're going to have to do about the timing is clean off the timing marker by getting underneath the car. Then get yourself some white nail polish and fill up the notch with the timing mark is. You should be able to see it pretty easily now. I cannot understand why the markings would not be there, so just look a little closer. There's got to be a notch there somewhere.
Other than that, I'm not going to explain how to check ignition timing, just open up a book, they will tell you.
It's pretty doubtful for a timing belt or chain to slip. I'm not saying that it never happens, but it is suspected much more than it is actual. Your belt or chain will have had to been loose beyond the tensioners ability for at least 40,000 miles for it to get that loose to where it may possibly skip. In all of my experience I have only witnessed this one time. It was on a Nissan 200SX that had over 200,000 miles on it with the belt never changed.
Since you say the crankcase ventilation was straight without a valve, there's a good likelihood that the engine has got a lot of carbon deposits built up in the combustion chamber. A situation like that would make any engine run very poorly, so you might want to clean that up with either some seafoam cleaner. A lot of mechanics use ATF. ATF does work excellent, but I can't recommend it because I don't know whether and not it is good for the environment, or rather bad for the environment.
Back to the belt or chain. To answer your question as to what to do to find out whether or not the belt or chain has slipped. You need to either move the timing case cover, or the cover of the timing belt, whatever it be named on that engine. Check the tension on the belt or chain. If there is any tension at all on it, it's highly unlikely that it has skipped. If there is more than three quarters of an inch of play on the loose side of the chain or belt, then I would be suspicious. Skipping usually happens when it is possible by a sudden deceleration from acceleration state. Then suddenly the engine runs profoundly different. Will not idle unless you keep your foot on the accelerator, and is very hard starting. Or, the engine will start and race very high. At least 1500 RPM above normal. When you try to accelerate, it tends to stall out. It's possible, but you don't see it very often.Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
You said you have a manual, or at least that is the way I understood it perhaps you were only reading from the internet if you were then first purchase a manual for the car. Then go to a parts store and they will rent you a timing light usually giving you back your deposit when you return the tool. Look in the manual for your particular engine and follow timing procedures, it does sound as though the timing is out a couple of teeth probably why it was parked in the first place. As far as your empty tank being full of fresh fuel, if you didn't clean the tank out then because it was empty it was able to rust in a much wider area however the fuel filter, if it was also replaced, should stop most of the trash it's the plugging up that you will have to worry about. The firing order as well as rotation you will find in the manual as well.Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
Have a close look at your manifold.is it in two parts,is the inlet and exhaust pipes bolted together and has a thin plate between them ,that is called the hot spot plate that warms the fuel as it enters the engine,when this plate gets corroded or burned through and creates a small pin hole in it,that allows the hot exhaust gasses through into the inlet and you get bang bang if you have that type of manifoldsDiagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
The easiest way to CHECK timing on a 4 cylinder is to pull the valve cover (pull the plugs first) then put a long socket extension in cylinder 1's plug hole (so it sticks out; spin the crank pulley by hand until the extension is at the apex of travel (the highest travel point) that's TDC (top dead center). At this point the arrow/marking on your camshaft(s) should be completely visible and in it's original position (which is parallel to the head (the long portion). If it's not the timing needs to be adjusted so that TDC has the cam(s) marking parallel to the head. Give or take a degree or two SHOULDN'T be a big deal.Diagnosing Engine Intake Backfire - Car Pros Only?
Wow! Most do not give near enough information but sometimes too much and a series of events can be hard to follow. I assume %26quot;dizzy%26quot; is the distributor and or cap?
--You asked for it so I will oblige you some.
----Many things can cause an engine to backfire and poor/bad fuel, or lack of fuel/too much fuel, vacuum leaks, bad sensors, and timing, are some.
--1)- You must ensure the basics. The vehicle was sitting a long time. It was on %26quot;empty so you put new fuel in it so you assume, %26quot;there's no stale fuel running in it.%26quot;. If you do not know it ran totally out of fuel this could be a very false assumption.
--A vehicle on empty, especially if it has a low fuel light, can have up to a gallon of fuel. If the fuel was bad(past stale), evidenced by a strong bad fuel smell, there was water in what fuel was left, or both, you could still have problems. even if the vehicle was filled with new fuel it would be what--10 or so gallons? One gallon of bad fuel would be detrimental. If only a few gallons were put in it then it would be worse.
--2)- You monkeyed with the P.V.C and oil was sucked into the air filter. There is a possibility that the mass air flow meter was contaminated.
--I could write several pages on cause and effect but will keep it relatively simple. The M.A.F. measures the air intake and with other sensors is used to adjust air intake, fuel, and timing, to ensure near 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio. This ratio is referred to as stoichiometric or fuel stoichiometry. This varies a little on some newer emission controlled vehicles. At sea level and the proper temperature all fuel will(theoretically) burn with 14.7 parts air and 1 part fuel.
--3)- If the M.A.F. sensor is weighted down with oil it will cause a back fire. Normally this would cause a sever lack of air with too much fuel(flooding) but on newer vehicles the sensors will adjust for this and cut the injector firing time down to compensate and can cause lean misfire..
--4)- Clogged fuel filter(lack of fuel). Pull it off and at least inspect. This is a maintenance item so should be replaced.
--5)- A bad vacuum leak(lean again) and very important
--Before you can go into the theory of mechanical engineering you have to begin with the basics. All of the above(also timing), can cause a lean misfire which would cause a backfire. Check these out, be ----100% ----certain, and if you still have a problem repost concerning the timing.
--Is there a check/service engine soon light on? This would mean a code is stored and can futher complicate things.
--I am no longer a technician(mechanic with speciality degrees) so I hope my lack of current qualifications does not hinder my ideas. In my defense I was A.S.E. certified in many areas including factory on-board computer diagnostics and repair training.
--I feel that my studies in stoichiometry placed me at the head of the class as obtainng this on a vehicle can either gain the ultimate fuel economy and performace or the ultimate power for racing.
What would the average retail price be for '98 Camry with consideration to options etc?
Ok. So I was in an accident this last Friday and I want to make sure that when my car is appraised that I'm actually getting a fair price. I'm hoping that by asking this question I could get some answers from either someone who currently sells cars at a car lot of some sort, or someone who used to sell cars at a car lot, or someone who just knows a LOT about this stuff, so here's everything I would consider pertinent to the price of the car if I would've sold it myself (I've looked at a lot of used cars private party before):
1998 Maroon (Dark Red) Camry LE, 4D (not the V6)
It has about 102,000miles on it, and 75% of the last 13,000miles were highway (driving from Spokane, WA to Seattle, WA)
It came with all of the standard factory options, it's additional options are:
Gold package (it has the gold emblems instead of the silver)
Fog Lights
Moon roof that slides and tilts (and has sun/wind reflector cover)
Alloy Wheels
Mud Flaps
The upgraded entertainment package which includes AM/FM radio, cassette, Single CD player, 6 speakers (I believe 4 are regular and 2 are tweeters, but it's all manufacture Toyota stuff)
Toyota VIP Security System (I have the beeper for it)
Other additional information I would include would be that I have 4 Yokohama iG20 snow tires for it which have only had one season and the current tires are all weather and still in good condition. I have ALL the owner's manuals (the owner manual, supp owner manual part 1%26amp;2, the VIP owner manual). I also have a Haynes Repair Manual for it. The spare tire is still intact. Before I bought it in Feb 2008, the car had only had one owner (ie I'm the second owner) and it has a clean title, all of which can be verified by carfax. I have kept a record of all the oil changes it has had since I bought it in Feb 08, it had 85,456 when I bought it, I changed the oil at 90,989 in Aug 08, I changed it at 94,917 in Jan 09, I changed it at 98,895 on May 15, 09.
Also, on May 15, 2009, I had a TON of tune-up/service work done. The spark plugs were replaced (iridium plug, dual tip), the fuel filter was replaced, the air filter was replaced, some sort of wires were replaced, the invoice sheet says Tailor Mag Cor Wires, it has a Minor tune up of Electronic Ignition, the transmission fluid was replaced, it says Belt ALT which I would assume means the Alternator belt was replaced?, it says Belt STG which I would assume means the steering belt was replaced?, the timing belt was replaced, the engine front oil seals were replaced which I believe includes the camshaft and crankshaft oil seals, the water pump was replaced, and the antifreeze/coolant was changed. I have the invoice for all of this and the receipt showing I paid for it; the total ended up being $1053.26.
As far as it's interior and exterior condition, I would obviously shampoo the carpets and clean everything if i was selling it, but I'm not sure if the appraiser will take that into consideration, the drivers side carpet has a fair amount of dirt stains due to the fact that the car was missing the floor mats when I bought it and I spend my winters in muddy, sandy, snowing Spokane, WA. However I have no idea how much of that would come out. Other than that the interior is in good condition for it's age. The exterior shows some minor wear and tear, the driver door was keyed but it's not too bad, very light and superficial, I have one fairly bad scrape with a dent, someone at the University obviously scraped me while parking, however, I would estimate no more than $500 repair, other than that the only other exterior issues are two small dings in the windshield and some teeny, tiny paint dings on the front and hood area just from lots of highway driving and driving on sanded roads. Speaking of sanded and salted roads, while the roads were salty and sandy here in Spokane this last winter I took my car in to be washed, with an undercarriage wash about every other week. Oh, I also have a set of regular tire chains with some rust on them, but they're still good, only used them this last season, oh, and I would include a set of jumper cables.
I have 1 clicker for the alarm system and I believe I have at least 4 sets of keys to the car. In my humble and biased opinion, the car is worth at LEAST $7,000, I mean, I paid 6,030 for it back in Feb 08, but that's because I had cash on hand and the guy selling from a small used car lot it thought it was a CE, not an LE (which it is, a Toyota dealership verified based on the VIN) and the guy didn't realize it had only had one owner. They had their listing price as $7,995.
Truly, I want my car to be fixed and not declared a total loss, but that's going to be difficult considering both the airbags deployed. However, it seems that the only non-structural damage (ie the front bumper destroyed, the hood slightly crumpled) the only damage they think is sustained is a broken windshield washer reservoir. So, if ANYONE can help me figure out hoWhat would the average retail price be for %26039;98 Camry with consideration to options etc?
The car also is 11 years old and has 102,000 miles. If you paid $6,000 for it a year and a half ago from a dealer, what makes you think it is worth more than that. I was a car dealer and in my opinion it is not worth more than $5,000. Usually insurance companies pay more than cars are worth so just wait and see what they come up with. You might be surprised.
1998 Maroon (Dark Red) Camry LE, 4D (not the V6)
It has about 102,000miles on it, and 75% of the last 13,000miles were highway (driving from Spokane, WA to Seattle, WA)
It came with all of the standard factory options, it's additional options are:
Gold package (it has the gold emblems instead of the silver)
Fog Lights
Moon roof that slides and tilts (and has sun/wind reflector cover)
Alloy Wheels
Mud Flaps
The upgraded entertainment package which includes AM/FM radio, cassette, Single CD player, 6 speakers (I believe 4 are regular and 2 are tweeters, but it's all manufacture Toyota stuff)
Toyota VIP Security System (I have the beeper for it)
Other additional information I would include would be that I have 4 Yokohama iG20 snow tires for it which have only had one season and the current tires are all weather and still in good condition. I have ALL the owner's manuals (the owner manual, supp owner manual part 1%26amp;2, the VIP owner manual). I also have a Haynes Repair Manual for it. The spare tire is still intact. Before I bought it in Feb 2008, the car had only had one owner (ie I'm the second owner) and it has a clean title, all of which can be verified by carfax. I have kept a record of all the oil changes it has had since I bought it in Feb 08, it had 85,456 when I bought it, I changed the oil at 90,989 in Aug 08, I changed it at 94,917 in Jan 09, I changed it at 98,895 on May 15, 09.
Also, on May 15, 2009, I had a TON of tune-up/service work done. The spark plugs were replaced (iridium plug, dual tip), the fuel filter was replaced, the air filter was replaced, some sort of wires were replaced, the invoice sheet says Tailor Mag Cor Wires, it has a Minor tune up of Electronic Ignition, the transmission fluid was replaced, it says Belt ALT which I would assume means the Alternator belt was replaced?, it says Belt STG which I would assume means the steering belt was replaced?, the timing belt was replaced, the engine front oil seals were replaced which I believe includes the camshaft and crankshaft oil seals, the water pump was replaced, and the antifreeze/coolant was changed. I have the invoice for all of this and the receipt showing I paid for it; the total ended up being $1053.26.
As far as it's interior and exterior condition, I would obviously shampoo the carpets and clean everything if i was selling it, but I'm not sure if the appraiser will take that into consideration, the drivers side carpet has a fair amount of dirt stains due to the fact that the car was missing the floor mats when I bought it and I spend my winters in muddy, sandy, snowing Spokane, WA. However I have no idea how much of that would come out. Other than that the interior is in good condition for it's age. The exterior shows some minor wear and tear, the driver door was keyed but it's not too bad, very light and superficial, I have one fairly bad scrape with a dent, someone at the University obviously scraped me while parking, however, I would estimate no more than $500 repair, other than that the only other exterior issues are two small dings in the windshield and some teeny, tiny paint dings on the front and hood area just from lots of highway driving and driving on sanded roads. Speaking of sanded and salted roads, while the roads were salty and sandy here in Spokane this last winter I took my car in to be washed, with an undercarriage wash about every other week. Oh, I also have a set of regular tire chains with some rust on them, but they're still good, only used them this last season, oh, and I would include a set of jumper cables.
I have 1 clicker for the alarm system and I believe I have at least 4 sets of keys to the car. In my humble and biased opinion, the car is worth at LEAST $7,000, I mean, I paid 6,030 for it back in Feb 08, but that's because I had cash on hand and the guy selling from a small used car lot it thought it was a CE, not an LE (which it is, a Toyota dealership verified based on the VIN) and the guy didn't realize it had only had one owner. They had their listing price as $7,995.
Truly, I want my car to be fixed and not declared a total loss, but that's going to be difficult considering both the airbags deployed. However, it seems that the only non-structural damage (ie the front bumper destroyed, the hood slightly crumpled) the only damage they think is sustained is a broken windshield washer reservoir. So, if ANYONE can help me figure out hoWhat would the average retail price be for %26039;98 Camry with consideration to options etc?
The car also is 11 years old and has 102,000 miles. If you paid $6,000 for it a year and a half ago from a dealer, what makes you think it is worth more than that. I was a car dealer and in my opinion it is not worth more than $5,000. Usually insurance companies pay more than cars are worth so just wait and see what they come up with. You might be surprised.
I want to sell my 94 Mustang Convertible. I'm not sure how much to ask for. It has 160,000 miles?
The motor runs fine. The vinyl top is pretty messed up and the hood has some %26quot;battle scars%26quot;. The interior is very clean. It has power everything, brand new tires, brand new battery, brand new power steering box and pump, and I just had the oil changed 2 weeks ago. I need to get rid of it because I just had a baby and it is no longer practical for a baby seat. It is a bright blue with a white top. I don't know how much is fair to ask for.I want to sell my 94 Mustang Convertible. I%26039;m not sure how much to ask for. It has 160,000 miles?
Use the KELLY BLUE BOOK.IT will give you the cars worth.Kelly Blue Book is also available online.But I think you should get about 3000 to 5000 dollars if its a 5.0I want to sell my 94 Mustang Convertible. I%26039;m not sure how much to ask for. It has 160,000 miles?
9000 on ebay, you should get more thoughI want to sell my 94 Mustang Convertible. I%26039;m not sure how much to ask for. It has 160,000 miles?
go to the kelly blue book site. They can tell you what ya need to know.I want to sell my 94 Mustang Convertible. I%26039;m not sure how much to ask for. It has 160,000 miles?
go to kellybluebook (http://www.kbb.com/) and follow the instructions. It will quote you on prices for the condition and miles that your vehichle has
Use the KELLY BLUE BOOK.IT will give you the cars worth.Kelly Blue Book is also available online.But I think you should get about 3000 to 5000 dollars if its a 5.0I want to sell my 94 Mustang Convertible. I%26039;m not sure how much to ask for. It has 160,000 miles?
9000 on ebay, you should get more thoughI want to sell my 94 Mustang Convertible. I%26039;m not sure how much to ask for. It has 160,000 miles?
go to the kelly blue book site. They can tell you what ya need to know.I want to sell my 94 Mustang Convertible. I%26039;m not sure how much to ask for. It has 160,000 miles?
go to kellybluebook (http://www.kbb.com/) and follow the instructions. It will quote you on prices for the condition and miles that your vehichle has
Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
I have Toyota Camry 1998 LE cylinder 4 model with 106K miles which I mostly use for commute to office. Its engine got seized because I forgot to change engine oil in time. Now, what is my optimal solution? I don't want to buy a new reliable car which is going to cost around 20k.
I see two options. Buying similar car / Toyota Carola / Honda Civic with similar mileage and year and selling my broken car though I don't know how much I will get for it with engine not working. However, I changed tires about 8 months ago and changed timing belt and water pump about an year ago.
I guess 2nd option will be to get it repaired. Other than engine problem, I don't have any known issue in this car. In repair also there are two choices: get refurbished engine or get the current engine repaired.
I am not sure which one is optimal solution. Can someone help me taking decision? What should I do? Which option to choose and how much it is going to cost or is there any other alternative?
Thanks.Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
Look at getting a used engine from a salvage yard. It will be much less expensive than a new or rebuilt engine, and will keep your car on the road.
try-http://www.car-part.com/Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
I wouldn't spend much money on another car, cause you'll probably seize that engine too. If you can't be bother will oil changes, get a bicycle.
I see two options. Buying similar car / Toyota Carola / Honda Civic with similar mileage and year and selling my broken car though I don't know how much I will get for it with engine not working. However, I changed tires about 8 months ago and changed timing belt and water pump about an year ago.
I guess 2nd option will be to get it repaired. Other than engine problem, I don't have any known issue in this car. In repair also there are two choices: get refurbished engine or get the current engine repaired.
I am not sure which one is optimal solution. Can someone help me taking decision? What should I do? Which option to choose and how much it is going to cost or is there any other alternative?
Thanks.Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
Look at getting a used engine from a salvage yard. It will be much less expensive than a new or rebuilt engine, and will keep your car on the road.
try-http://www.car-part.com/Optimal solution: buy and old car or get the car fixed?
I wouldn't spend much money on another car, cause you'll probably seize that engine too. If you can't be bother will oil changes, get a bicycle.
99 Toyota Camry 90K Miles Check Engine Light Code P0505 Idle Control Malfunction?
Rough to start, then OK. Tried new air filter, new toyota brand spark plugs, changed oil with synthetic, Lucas oil treatment, new toyota gas cap, fuel cleaner twice, throttle body cleaning, new battery. Had a diagnostic and they recommended new IAC valve, which was changed. Light still on, still rough start. Now they're saying it could be something electrical. It will need a new timing belt/water pump soon. Should I continue to put money in it? I've already spend $750 and electrical problems could be simple or endless. Computer problem? It was down 2 qts. of oil when the light first came on. Someone also said that a wrench could have touched the positive terminal on the battery causing this. They said they tested for vacuum leaks. Any ideas on how to fix this?99 Toyota Camry 90K Miles Check Engine Light Code P0505 Idle Control Malfunction?
PO505 is idle control SYSTEM malfunction. The %26quot;MEKANIK%26quot; needs to get the idle control diagram and see what it consists of. I would suggest cleaning the maf or map sensor ( whichever you have) very carefully with some contact cleaner in a spray can. Do not touch the sensor as it is quite delicate. Nothing I can see in your list of repairs, except maaybe the iac, has anything to do with the problem. I think you need a shop with some know how. Stay away from dealers.99 Toyota Camry 90K Miles Check Engine Light Code P0505 Idle Control Malfunction?
if you have a code stored in the computer the car can ignore the information from a sensor and go to another sensor to get a rough estimate of what that first sensor should be reading. if you replace a failed sensor the computer still sees a bad sensor fro a total of 40 completed drive cycles with out the problem. given this much information, i would see f you can not find a way to barrow a scanner to erase the codes and/or read the codes and see of anything changes.
PO505 is idle control SYSTEM malfunction. The %26quot;MEKANIK%26quot; needs to get the idle control diagram and see what it consists of. I would suggest cleaning the maf or map sensor ( whichever you have) very carefully with some contact cleaner in a spray can. Do not touch the sensor as it is quite delicate. Nothing I can see in your list of repairs, except maaybe the iac, has anything to do with the problem. I think you need a shop with some know how. Stay away from dealers.99 Toyota Camry 90K Miles Check Engine Light Code P0505 Idle Control Malfunction?
if you have a code stored in the computer the car can ignore the information from a sensor and go to another sensor to get a rough estimate of what that first sensor should be reading. if you replace a failed sensor the computer still sees a bad sensor fro a total of 40 completed drive cycles with out the problem. given this much information, i would see f you can not find a way to barrow a scanner to erase the codes and/or read the codes and see of anything changes.
Changing lower unit gear oil?
ok so I just bought my first boat a week ago and want to make sure I know how to get it ready for winter before its time for her winter slumber. so this is one of the things I need to do to get it ready
I have a 1986 75hp Jonson out board
I have looked it up on the internet and it looks simple just have a couple questions
is the fitting that comes on the pump to pump the new oil in the same size or do i need a special size for a Jonson
what oil do I use (is there like a certain weight I should use) if you dont know where would I look
and correct me if im wrong don't you just take out the 2 plugs let the oil come out. pump the oil in until fluid comes out the top hole. put the cap on the top hole take pump hose out and put the plug back inChanging lower unit gear oil?
If it is an electric shift it needs OMC electric shift gear oil, and if it's a standard shift it needs the normal lower unit gear oil. When you drain it, If it comes out looking milky then you have water in it. It needs to be checked out by a mechanic pretty soon because if there is water in it the gear case will freeze up and bust in winter weather especially if it gets really cold. But, you CAN refill it with fresh gear oil and wait until spring before taking it to a mechanic, but you need to have it checked before it goes in the water to prevent any problem.
Your procedure for refilling it is correct and the process of fogging the engine is the best way to winterize it. You can get the fogging oil from a dealer. Get the gear oil at any dealer or at any NAPA auto parts store. Last thing before you take it out of the water while the engine is running, disconnect the fuel line from the engine and just let it run till it runs out of gas.
It's not advised to use the 80-90 from your truck but it would do in a pinch. Also, make sure the battery is fully charged before storing the boat.Changing lower unit gear oil?
%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;is the fitting that comes on the pump to pump the new oil in the same size or do i need a special size for a Jonson%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
It should screw right in, never had a problem with any of my boats
%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;and correct me if im wrong don't you just take out the 2 plugs let the oil come out. pump the oil in until fluid comes out the top hole. put the cap on the top hole take pump hose out and put the plug back in%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
That's exactly right.Changing lower unit gear oil?
The thread size is standard for most outboards. and yes you remove both plugs to drain. However if the oil is milky or water runs out, you need to get it serviced right away. Refill with oil until you can get it serviced. I strongly recommend you use OMC gear lube. The standard 80-90 gear lube is a bit heavy....... West marine and other marine stores have either OMC or Quicksilver oil. In Winterization it's more important to %26quot;fog%26quot; the running engine, and burn off or drain all the fuel before storage. This is a change from years past. a dry tank is preferred. Good Luck.do at a tanning salon delegates
I have a 1986 75hp Jonson out board
I have looked it up on the internet and it looks simple just have a couple questions
is the fitting that comes on the pump to pump the new oil in the same size or do i need a special size for a Jonson
what oil do I use (is there like a certain weight I should use) if you dont know where would I look
and correct me if im wrong don't you just take out the 2 plugs let the oil come out. pump the oil in until fluid comes out the top hole. put the cap on the top hole take pump hose out and put the plug back inChanging lower unit gear oil?
If it is an electric shift it needs OMC electric shift gear oil, and if it's a standard shift it needs the normal lower unit gear oil. When you drain it, If it comes out looking milky then you have water in it. It needs to be checked out by a mechanic pretty soon because if there is water in it the gear case will freeze up and bust in winter weather especially if it gets really cold. But, you CAN refill it with fresh gear oil and wait until spring before taking it to a mechanic, but you need to have it checked before it goes in the water to prevent any problem.
Your procedure for refilling it is correct and the process of fogging the engine is the best way to winterize it. You can get the fogging oil from a dealer. Get the gear oil at any dealer or at any NAPA auto parts store. Last thing before you take it out of the water while the engine is running, disconnect the fuel line from the engine and just let it run till it runs out of gas.
It's not advised to use the 80-90 from your truck but it would do in a pinch. Also, make sure the battery is fully charged before storing the boat.Changing lower unit gear oil?
%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;is the fitting that comes on the pump to pump the new oil in the same size or do i need a special size for a Jonson%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
It should screw right in, never had a problem with any of my boats
%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;and correct me if im wrong don't you just take out the 2 plugs let the oil come out. pump the oil in until fluid comes out the top hole. put the cap on the top hole take pump hose out and put the plug back in%26gt;%26gt;%26gt;
That's exactly right.Changing lower unit gear oil?
The thread size is standard for most outboards. and yes you remove both plugs to drain. However if the oil is milky or water runs out, you need to get it serviced right away. Refill with oil until you can get it serviced. I strongly recommend you use OMC gear lube. The standard 80-90 gear lube is a bit heavy....... West marine and other marine stores have either OMC or Quicksilver oil. In Winterization it's more important to %26quot;fog%26quot; the running engine, and burn off or drain all the fuel before storage. This is a change from years past. a dry tank is preferred. Good Luck.
Still on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
How do you remove that crazy oil pan so I can change rod bearings and oil pump .Parts guy says take out all the bolts and a screwdriver pry it loose and it will come right off.
needless to say I didn't take his advice.I do need real help Christmas Eve and snow tomorrow night, So help me PLEASE!!! Thanks in advance for anyhelp you Guy's and Gal's can give me!Still on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
You need to take his advise. The reason you need the screwdriver to pop it off is because you have to break the seal on the gasket around the oil pan to get it off. Make sure you buy a new gasket to put back on it before you start.Still on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO JACK THE ENGINE UP A LITTLE OFF THE FRAME TO GET THE PAN OUT, oops, make sure ALL the bolts are outStill on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
remove motor mounts ,, place jack with a block of wood and jack up on the harmonic balancer till it is high enough to get oil pan outStill on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
take out all the bolts and pry it loose with screwdriverStill on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
what engine is it? if it is a diesel you will have to raise engine high enough to get pan off. you probably should not be doing this job yourself!Still on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
I know you don't need any questions, but..
Why are you changing them? If you spun a bearing, the crank will be screwed up. That will chew up a new bearing pronto.
What did you do if you didn't take his advice? At what point are youin this operation?Still on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
The guy above me has a good point. Why are you replaceing the bearings and pump? If you spun a bearing, you are going to have to pull this engine out to do this right, because you can't put new bearings onto a chewed up crank.
Since you have to raise the engine anyway to get the oil pan off, you might as well take the trans out and pull the engine and do it right. This is a big job, don't shortcut now, because you WILL regret it later!
needless to say I didn't take his advice.I do need real help Christmas Eve and snow tomorrow night, So help me PLEASE!!! Thanks in advance for anyhelp you Guy's and Gal's can give me!Still on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
You need to take his advise. The reason you need the screwdriver to pop it off is because you have to break the seal on the gasket around the oil pan to get it off. Make sure you buy a new gasket to put back on it before you start.Still on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO JACK THE ENGINE UP A LITTLE OFF THE FRAME TO GET THE PAN OUT, oops, make sure ALL the bolts are outStill on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
remove motor mounts ,, place jack with a block of wood and jack up on the harmonic balancer till it is high enough to get oil pan outStill on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
take out all the bolts and pry it loose with screwdriverStill on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
what engine is it? if it is a diesel you will have to raise engine high enough to get pan off. you probably should not be doing this job yourself!Still on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
I know you don't need any questions, but..
Why are you changing them? If you spun a bearing, the crank will be screwed up. That will chew up a new bearing pronto.
What did you do if you didn't take his advice? At what point are youin this operation?Still on that crazy 85 f-150 4x4?
The guy above me has a good point. Why are you replaceing the bearings and pump? If you spun a bearing, you are going to have to pull this engine out to do this right, because you can't put new bearings onto a chewed up crank.
Since you have to raise the engine anyway to get the oil pan off, you might as well take the trans out and pull the engine and do it right. This is a big job, don't shortcut now, because you WILL regret it later!
1998 KAWASAKI PRAIRIE 400 4x4 OVERHEATING LIGHT ON?
changed oil filter and oil this winter got registered took out for first ride and started smoking and dripping off oil filter shut it off. Got it back to house by truck found out after looking at it that it was not the filter but oil lines old and brittle and wet. Changed oil lines had to take a few things apart (took front wheel off and air filter tube also had to disconnect a few coolant hoses and lost a bit of coolant) replaced with water put things back together and fired it up and ran it for a while water temp light keeps on coming on now before it didn't what could be the problem(s)? how do i tell if water pump is circulating coolant? coolant is not leaking out any where and is not puffing white smoke anybody got any thoughts on it. appreciate anything that can be said.1998 KAWASAKI PRAIRIE 400 4x4 OVERHEATING LIGHT ON?
You probably have an air bubble in your coolant system now that you disconnected and reconnected some coolant lines.
Run it for a few minutes to get engine up to temp.
Shut off engine.
When it's safe, add some coolant, then let it set a few minutes (5 or 10).
Start again, let it warm up.
Shut it off. Check coolant level, add more if needed.
I hope this helps.
Also, make sure your radiator is not covered with mud, that will make things get hot.
You probably have an air bubble in your coolant system now that you disconnected and reconnected some coolant lines.
Run it for a few minutes to get engine up to temp.
Shut off engine.
When it's safe, add some coolant, then let it set a few minutes (5 or 10).
Start again, let it warm up.
Shut it off. Check coolant level, add more if needed.
I hope this helps.
Also, make sure your radiator is not covered with mud, that will make things get hot.
'77 GMC Sierra Classic repair help?
I'm trying to fix up an old 4x4 Sierra Classic (but it doesn't have the 454) but I don't really know where to start. I can't remember it ever being driven (REALLY bad memory) and the fuel gauge says both tanks are full. I know I have to drain the tanks, change the oil, and move the fuel pump, but I know how to do the second two. I kind of know my way around an engine, but the more detail the better.
Thanks for any and all the help.%26039;77 GMC Sierra Classic repair help?
If the vehicle has been sitting for years, you are looking at a lot of work.
1. Before you turn the engine over, remove all the spark plugs %26amp; fill the cylinders with WD 40 or Moovit. Let it sit for at least a week. This will help prevent the ring lands from breaking once the engine is turned.
2. Drop the engine oil to check for coolant. If OK add new oil %26amp; filter
3. Remove the Distributor
4. Place in a long rod (鈪?quot; material) with a flattened end(similar to a flat screwdriver) in a 鈪?quot; electric drill. Use to prime the oil pump (turns clockwise)
5. Switch on the drill until oil pressure is reached (about 30 seconds)
6. Connect a remote starter button to starter
7. Remove the rocker covers
8. Switch on the drill. Turn over the engine with the remote starter. Observe the action of the rocker arms. They should all move a minimum of 陆%26quot; each. If not then the cam may be flat or the lifter is weak. Continue for about a minute. Allow the starter motor to cool off %26amp; repeat. If no improvement then the engine will have to come apart to investigate the cause.
9. Rebuild the carb. It will be full of rotten gas.
10. A complete brake job will be required.
(2) Front Calipers
(2) Rear Wheel Cylinders
(1) Master Cylinder
(2) Rear Axle Seals
To change the fuel pump:
?Remove the fuel lines using line wrenches so you do not strip the fittings
?Remove the two 鈪?quot; bolts on the pump
?Remove the top 鈪?quot; bolt next to the harmonic balancer [front of engine] next to fuel pump.
?Push the fuel pump push rod up until it contacts the cam (should be only about 陆%26quot; exposed.
?Place a longer 鈪?quot; NC bolt in the front of the engine to hold the push rod in place. DO NOT tighten too much or you will bend the push rod.
?Scrape off the old gasket
?Install new fuel pump
?Replace 鈪?quot; bolt in the front of the engine with the original
?Reattach your fuel lines
Good Luck. . . Have fun. . .
禄禄禄%26039;77 GMC Sierra Classic repair help?
On these trucks when you flip the switch for the tanks it moves a valve that switches over the fuel suction line, the return line (if truck had AC), and a switch contact for the gas gauge. On a truck that old the first place I would be looking for a problem would be grounds. There is a ground wire that goes from the frame to a tab on the top of the sending unit (which is also the pickup). There is also a wire that goes from the sending unit to the tank selector valve thing. Most of the time I see that ground wire get all crudded up and come off the top of the tank because its pretty close to where the gap is between the box and cab so you can get leaves and other crud down there to hold in moisture and rust things. While you are working down there it would not be a bad idea to put some new pieces of fuel hose on. The old ones are likely cracked and hard as a rock by now. If the valve does not switch I would also make sure it has a good ground.
Thanks for any and all the help.%26039;77 GMC Sierra Classic repair help?
If the vehicle has been sitting for years, you are looking at a lot of work.
1. Before you turn the engine over, remove all the spark plugs %26amp; fill the cylinders with WD 40 or Moovit. Let it sit for at least a week. This will help prevent the ring lands from breaking once the engine is turned.
2. Drop the engine oil to check for coolant. If OK add new oil %26amp; filter
3. Remove the Distributor
4. Place in a long rod (鈪?quot; material) with a flattened end(similar to a flat screwdriver) in a 鈪?quot; electric drill. Use to prime the oil pump (turns clockwise)
5. Switch on the drill until oil pressure is reached (about 30 seconds)
6. Connect a remote starter button to starter
7. Remove the rocker covers
8. Switch on the drill. Turn over the engine with the remote starter. Observe the action of the rocker arms. They should all move a minimum of 陆%26quot; each. If not then the cam may be flat or the lifter is weak. Continue for about a minute. Allow the starter motor to cool off %26amp; repeat. If no improvement then the engine will have to come apart to investigate the cause.
9. Rebuild the carb. It will be full of rotten gas.
10. A complete brake job will be required.
(2) Front Calipers
(2) Rear Wheel Cylinders
(1) Master Cylinder
(2) Rear Axle Seals
To change the fuel pump:
?Remove the fuel lines using line wrenches so you do not strip the fittings
?Remove the two 鈪?quot; bolts on the pump
?Remove the top 鈪?quot; bolt next to the harmonic balancer [front of engine] next to fuel pump.
?Push the fuel pump push rod up until it contacts the cam (should be only about 陆%26quot; exposed.
?Place a longer 鈪?quot; NC bolt in the front of the engine to hold the push rod in place. DO NOT tighten too much or you will bend the push rod.
?Scrape off the old gasket
?Install new fuel pump
?Replace 鈪?quot; bolt in the front of the engine with the original
?Reattach your fuel lines
Good Luck. . . Have fun. . .
禄禄禄%26039;77 GMC Sierra Classic repair help?
On these trucks when you flip the switch for the tanks it moves a valve that switches over the fuel suction line, the return line (if truck had AC), and a switch contact for the gas gauge. On a truck that old the first place I would be looking for a problem would be grounds. There is a ground wire that goes from the frame to a tab on the top of the sending unit (which is also the pickup). There is also a wire that goes from the sending unit to the tank selector valve thing. Most of the time I see that ground wire get all crudded up and come off the top of the tank because its pretty close to where the gap is between the box and cab so you can get leaves and other crud down there to hold in moisture and rust things. While you are working down there it would not be a bad idea to put some new pieces of fuel hose on. The old ones are likely cracked and hard as a rock by now. If the valve does not switch I would also make sure it has a good ground.
How much to get this car back on road? (estimated cost)?
2 new tyres
Rust around the rear screen
Oil leak from front of engine under timing cover
Water pump is also weeping out
timing belt
Oil change
few scratches + bumps
paint - roof + bumper
battery needs charging
know nth about cars. so..
thanks a lot. =)How much to get this car back on road? (estimated cost)?
Your probably looking at $2000 or better. A good down payment on a better car.How much to get this car back on road? (estimated cost)?
More than the car is worth.
Body repair is extremely expensive, especially if the rust is all the way eaten into the metal, for the rust and paint and body damage work, figure at least $1000 to do it right.
Foreign cars will almost always cost a lot more to repair mechanically, due to the price of the parts.
These are ROUGH estimates.
Water pump, anywhere from $250 to $800, maybe more depending on make and model.
Timing belt, usually between $200 to $500, depending on make and model.
Oil change, maybe $25.
Battery- if needs a new one, maybe $50-$75.
How much to get this car back on road? (estimated cost)?
just removing the scratches, dents, doing metal work, and repainting the car would be at the very least $2000 at say MAACO but they do a $!t job.
Battery recharge is free at Wal-mart, a new battery is $45-$100
an oil change is around $20-30
water pump varies by car but if its european be ready to pay out the ***
and the oil leak is also going to be pricey
the timing belt will be $10-100
tires range from $10-200 really depends on the quality
Rust around the rear screen
Oil leak from front of engine under timing cover
Water pump is also weeping out
timing belt
Oil change
few scratches + bumps
paint - roof + bumper
battery needs charging
know nth about cars. so..
thanks a lot. =)How much to get this car back on road? (estimated cost)?
Your probably looking at $2000 or better. A good down payment on a better car.How much to get this car back on road? (estimated cost)?
More than the car is worth.
Body repair is extremely expensive, especially if the rust is all the way eaten into the metal, for the rust and paint and body damage work, figure at least $1000 to do it right.
Foreign cars will almost always cost a lot more to repair mechanically, due to the price of the parts.
These are ROUGH estimates.
Water pump, anywhere from $250 to $800, maybe more depending on make and model.
Timing belt, usually between $200 to $500, depending on make and model.
Oil change, maybe $25.
Battery- if needs a new one, maybe $50-$75.
How much to get this car back on road? (estimated cost)?
just removing the scratches, dents, doing metal work, and repainting the car would be at the very least $2000 at say MAACO but they do a $!t job.
Battery recharge is free at Wal-mart, a new battery is $45-$100
an oil change is around $20-30
water pump varies by car but if its european be ready to pay out the ***
and the oil leak is also going to be pricey
the timing belt will be $10-100
tires range from $10-200 really depends on the quality
HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
I HAVE A FORD EXPLORER, THE TORNADO DIDN'T WORK..I'M THINKING ABOUT PERFORMANCE CHIP. I DON'T MIND PUMPING PREM. I WILL GET TUNE UP, JUST GOT MY OIL CHANGE, TIRE ROTATION AND AIR CHECK.HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
Make sure it is not in 4 WD!!!
Yep, I knew someone who cussed their's for months due to poor gas mileage, and then learned they had it in 4 WD all the time!HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
use syn oil and K%26amp;N air filter will help, but the biggest thing is driving style, anticipate stop signs and on hills don't use the cruise control,HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
dont get the chip it will increase power but it wont help milage. get the iridium hybrid platnum botch plus 4 spark plugs you will notice a difference. get different coil packs . ones from msd or jacobs. also a msd ignition or jacobs ignition will increase power and fuel conso. a stock ignition only burns about 50% of the fuel in the combustion chamber and the rest comes out in exaust. when you up grade it burns 99.9% of the fuel in the chamber so it gives you more power and you dont have to get your foot in her tail to get a result . shes more responsive.
a k+n air filter will help. synthetic oils for your engine and tranny and differental. any time you reduce friction you increase power and milage. if you cant get the msd ignitions get the plugs ,oils and air filter . you will be pleased.HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
Actually using the cruise control helps milage. Odd that you want to increase milage, but don't mind using premium ($$$) A performance chip won't increase milage. Just make sure it's tuned up and the tires have about 35 psi in them. Go easy on the gas pedal starting.HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
You don't give the engine size, but you'll be lucky to get 21 mpg on the highway with the 4.0L and 17 mpg with the 5.0L. A performance chip might actually decrease the mileage because the ones I know about typically cause the engine to rev higher before the trans shifts into a higher gear, which is not exactly great for mpg.HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
well for starters stick to Ford parts. The tornado lets think about this. it goes in between you air filter and throttle housing making the air swirl to help maximize the air intake. Little did the makers of the tornado forget to tell you about throttle plates, they undo what the tornado just did. So if you want to spend money just send it to me i can use it. As for putting in high premium gas or 10% ethanol. your pissing money away in the wind. Fords are set up to run on 87 octane. and the ethanol in the gas decreases gas mileage. as i tell my customers dont use the 10% during the summer and use it once every 4th tank in the winter to get the moisture out. As to increase mileage, dont mash the gas pedal to the floor and dont slam on the breaks when you reach the stop sign. Take it easy, use the cruise, and tap the brakes to disable the cruise when your reaching your turn and let the forward momentum carry you instead of losing that wasted energy at the brakes. Proper maintenance will go along ways to. And a chip is not the way to go on a gas engine.linux web hosting How do i make a quilt
Make sure it is not in 4 WD!!!
Yep, I knew someone who cussed their's for months due to poor gas mileage, and then learned they had it in 4 WD all the time!HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
use syn oil and K%26amp;N air filter will help, but the biggest thing is driving style, anticipate stop signs and on hills don't use the cruise control,HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
dont get the chip it will increase power but it wont help milage. get the iridium hybrid platnum botch plus 4 spark plugs you will notice a difference. get different coil packs . ones from msd or jacobs. also a msd ignition or jacobs ignition will increase power and fuel conso. a stock ignition only burns about 50% of the fuel in the combustion chamber and the rest comes out in exaust. when you up grade it burns 99.9% of the fuel in the chamber so it gives you more power and you dont have to get your foot in her tail to get a result . shes more responsive.
a k+n air filter will help. synthetic oils for your engine and tranny and differental. any time you reduce friction you increase power and milage. if you cant get the msd ignitions get the plugs ,oils and air filter . you will be pleased.HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
Actually using the cruise control helps milage. Odd that you want to increase milage, but don't mind using premium ($$$) A performance chip won't increase milage. Just make sure it's tuned up and the tires have about 35 psi in them. Go easy on the gas pedal starting.HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
You don't give the engine size, but you'll be lucky to get 21 mpg on the highway with the 4.0L and 17 mpg with the 5.0L. A performance chip might actually decrease the mileage because the ones I know about typically cause the engine to rev higher before the trans shifts into a higher gear, which is not exactly great for mpg.HoW to Increase Gas Milleage on Ford Explorer 1999?
well for starters stick to Ford parts. The tornado lets think about this. it goes in between you air filter and throttle housing making the air swirl to help maximize the air intake. Little did the makers of the tornado forget to tell you about throttle plates, they undo what the tornado just did. So if you want to spend money just send it to me i can use it. As for putting in high premium gas or 10% ethanol. your pissing money away in the wind. Fords are set up to run on 87 octane. and the ethanol in the gas decreases gas mileage. as i tell my customers dont use the 10% during the summer and use it once every 4th tank in the winter to get the moisture out. As to increase mileage, dont mash the gas pedal to the floor and dont slam on the breaks when you reach the stop sign. Take it easy, use the cruise, and tap the brakes to disable the cruise when your reaching your turn and let the forward momentum carry you instead of losing that wasted energy at the brakes. Proper maintenance will go along ways to. And a chip is not the way to go on a gas engine.
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